2.9l street engine build

[Clatter]

FWIW, I think the type1 oil pump too-small OD issue can be easily nutted if you have the motor clear apart.
Just insert the four oil pump stud holes.
Then you can use bolts there.
That way you can seal up the pump in 518 or RTV in each case half as the case comes together.
Just glue it in place, and the bolts can go in afterwards.

[Clatter]

Not that there's anything wrong with a good condition type 4 pump..

[Type 4 Unleashed]

Myself, I think a stroker motor requires more than a stock pump will provide. In Europe there are plenty of options.
Here's a topic on pumps with a couple of options I like, and I actually use the the Revmaster pump: Oil Pumps

[MegaRookie]

Thanks Richard. I don't know if you have the 38mm version, but that one is big . For now I start with the rebuild original one, and if my log says I have pressure problems I will upgrade to a bigger one. (Don't forget that it a street car and it will not see 8k rpm constantly)

It took a few days waiting for the correct oil tube, but it arrived, and yesterday all parts were ready to close the case, after tripple checking camshaft and rod endfloat, gear timing, placement of the distributershaft and more.



I couldnt wait to mount some of the nice looking parts.

Maybe Ill continue tomorrow on finishing the pistonrings and piston weight so I can also install the pistons and cylinders.

Mark

[MegaRookie]

Hi guys,

It been a while since the last update. It was the idea that the engine would be running already, but I had an exhaust valve sealing issue which is causing delay. I hope to get the head back this week, but I already continued with the assembly of the other side.

The head on the left side assembled:


Porsche fan mounted (will be disassembled for fitting the engine in the bug, but at least the sealant will dry correctly this way)


And yesterday the first parts of the exhaust came back from the welder


I hope the next update will be the engine in the car!

Mark

[MegaRookie]

Time for a small update. This week I finally got the engine in the car and finished the assembly of the silencer part of the exhaust.

Outside the car:


In the car:


And the complete exhaust fitted together, ready for welding:


I first thought to reuse the VW coil on plugs I had on the previous engine. But... I found put that the throttle linkage should be in the same place as two of the coils, so I ordered a new coil near plug coil which I should receive next week, and that should fit better. Besides that still a lot of work to do, but it should be running in the next two months.

Mark

[Wally]

Great update Mark, I almost missed this..(email notification doesn't work for me for years now)

[MegaRookie]

Thanks Walter!

Last weeks I had some more progress. The silencer part is welded now, the new coil is fitted and wiring is almost sorted out to work with the new coil and tps. I just have to do some soldering to finish it, and some new wires for the alternator, because the current wires are too short.

The next work will be to finish the wiring, finish clearance work on the right side valve cover (t4, 86mm stroke, 5.7 rods is wide for a 69 bug ) and install the valvetrain and oil/fuel routing. Those are the main subjects to finish before the first start. Just a few more weeks!

Some questions to you all as t4 guys.

- What do you use to plug to holes in the case to the flywheel/gearbox? I am affraid to drop some tools/bolts/through that one day.
- For valves/springs I chose the cb race master ones (chevy size springs). They are almost the same length as t4, and give me approx. 15mm lift to coil bind, which is fine, because the web 86c gives me approx. 13mm lift with the standard intake rocker. (Less on the exhaust) But... when I want to update to 1.48/1.5 ratio in the future I do not have enough space for that. How do you guys handle that? I think about going k800 springs with longer valves? But what valves to use etc?

Thanks!

Kind regards Mark

[wreck]

I used stock LS3 exhaust valves for the exhaust and cut down intakes , they are 8mm stem . using PAC 1286 beehive springs . It is not ideal as I have to run thick spacers to get the right rocker geometry ,which leads into problems with the rocker moving closer to the valve . The pockets had to be opened a small amount . I've 1.75" installed height . the springs shimmed to give .650" before coil bind and I've .550" lift at the valve .Thanks to some awesome work from Dangerous Dave !
PAC 1215's may also be an option . I went this way because I didn't want to cut down the boss for dual springs . Also dual springs create heat .

beehives .jpg

Something to check is at what lift the ports stop flowing . If your heads don't flow any more past 0.500 lift ,then going to more lift is just putting more stress on components for no reason .

[MegaRookie]

Thanks for the info wreck! I guess it will take some time before I would do an upgrade, but good to see that there are some options that don't need a lot of mods to the heads.

[Udo Airbus]

oh Mark wat dik!

Super cool! Love the exhaust! You must have a lot of clearance under the engine!

[MegaRookie]

oh Mark wat dik!

Super cool! Love the exhaust! You must have a lot of clearance under the engine!

Bedankt Udo, leuk om n reactie in t Nederlands te zien!

Regarding the clearance, I do not have a lot of space anymore, haha, I think I even have to lift the rear a bit. With my 2l I broke the oil temp sender a couple of times due to lack of clearance (installed at the small "i dunno what its used for" plate at the bottom of the engine), and this exhaust causes even less ground clearance, but we will see. I guess I need to go to stronger torsion bars at the rear also!

[MegaRookie]

It took some time, but after redoing the valve train last week, finishing the wiring and fuellines, it was finally time tonight to start the engine for the first time.

I already tested the sensors, I did have a nice spark when starting without sparkplugs mounted, and I got oilpressure, so that is all fine. Also no fuel leaks and fresh fuel, so that sounds like all the ingrediënts for succes. Unfortunately the engine didn't start tonight. The log showed that the battery voltage dropped below 8 volts, so I guess that was one of the problems it didn't fire anymore.

Another thing that I noticed that I did not get a very clean reading from the timing wheel. I did some measurements which showed that the triggerwheel is not completely on center, so that also needs some improvement. Thats something to check at work tomorrow.

Now I need to find another/extra battery, so maybe more luck on wednesday.

[twodollardoug]

Good luck tomorrow.

[Clatter]

Looking forward to seeing more..