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The workmanship looks great, but I see the potential turbulence inside of the cover going into the tubes into the fuel system.

An opinion, Lee

Awesome work! (as always)

I've been busy with tuning clients cars, but now when season is over and I started working with my own bug.
It was an awesome season and I learned alot. Fastest and the only methanol car I tuned with my own ecu is in 7s now. (~1200h LS) I also had a chance to push 2 little engines to their limit and I was able to see 750nm 511kw from hubs on 1.8L audi and 820nm 512kw from hubs on 2L opel engine. It gives me really good push to wait for my saab engine. i really beleve that 600kw 900NM from hubs can be done with 4 cylinder engine.
Now some pics of last week works on front axle. Wheelbase was set to 108" That was max I could fit under hood. (No wings)
I'm not pleased with that front end look. There are pipes that are not needed and some parts would look better if they would be different but I have to live with that, or I just make 1 step forward and 2 steps back and It will never be finished.

Sweet!

Some little progress

Sorry, not much but I decided to go with dry sump. As my target power request I made 15mm Girdle. When I thaught about it, I decided to go without sump / oilpan and collect oil with my girdle. (1 part less to make and 1 potentional leak less. I also made a new fuel tank (waiting for filling neck and cap)
After that I took it to apart to weld everything whats not done yet. (It must go to powdercoat in march atleast)

This is gonna be such a cool car! Thanks for the updates!

Thanks for the good words.
This week was more productive than last month.
Today I went to one of out bearing/belts store and find out that these oil pump belts is some regular profile, so we searched that is there any lenght of them as 2 side belt (tooth on both side) and we found it. So ordered 2 belt and 2 more pulleys and its gonna be awesome. Pump will be in totally different position as usually. Mostly they are on the side of the engine behind the front pulley. I have no room for that because of my awesome icebox / cooler. So, I will install it to the front of the engine, needed 2 side belt for changing direction. Now it can be on the side I need some weight (passenger side) now it will be more front than behind as my weight requiers and now the oil lines are shorten and more direct with less elbows. Its hard to explain but hope to show it next month. Then we should have every little piece welded to frame to send it to owen for powdercoating. Can´t wait for working with that new fresh frame. Its so enjoyable to fit new parts to freshly painted frame.

Thanks for the updates. I'm quite interested in what you do to the mill to get 1k hp, & keep it alive. Assuming it's a drag-only motor, or auto-cross capable?
TIA.
Marcus...

VolksRodT wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2025 12:12 pm Thanks for the updates. I'm quite interested in what you do to the mill to get 1k hp, & keep it alive. Assuming it's a drag-only motor, or auto-cross capable?
TIA.
Marcus...

with 1000hp it won´t last more than needed for dragrace I quess. on 1070hp engine is done in sweden. Actually my 8 second plans doesn´t need 1000hp but I´m sure I´ll try that on dyno atleast. Or maybe I can use that power on last 200 meters when the car will handle good.
I´ve tuned 500+ cars as I install my own made ECUs to cars as my main work. but lately I was able to tune my first saab engine. it was totally stock inside (stock rods, pistons, head studs, head gasket - stock everything) Outside the engine was cheap holset HX40Super turbo. It was 2 litre b204 engine (from saab 9000) and we stopped on dyno with 2bar of boost because some smarter guys says that its the limit for stock head bolts. with 2bar of boost and regular gas it made 450hp/520nm from hubs, I was really impressed how it woke up such a lazy 700hp turbo. On the road, with 4th gear it makes fullboost on 4500rpm.
My engine is mostly the same but I use extra displacement and 2.3L engine not 2 (Difference only in crank) I use newer head with thinner valves. I use way better cam and springs than original and try to hold it all together with ARP studs and Girdle, with forged pistons and rods. Swedish guy Joel, who helps me a lot, has done one drift car engine quite similar as mine and it makes 700hp 800nm if not mistaken and made 3rd season already. It was on e83, I´ll use Methanol, it helps to keep it cool and make serious power. Btw, I just bought 11th engine just for saving them before melting. Longblock cost me 80€, full engines start near 200€ but the old ones with tough internals are quite expensive here now (9000 body) and they can cost 600€
At the moment I´m just waiting for the parts from lazer cutting, from shops, from states (fuel pump) and when they arrive this month, I should be able to paint the chassis in march.

Not much but we got frame 95% done and all welded, it took 11 hours to weld.
I made a frame for burst panel and welded also the girdle. Now I´m waiting for some parts and lazer cutting. I hope fuel pump arrives quick and I can finish the frame before march because it will be powdercoated then.

I don´t know, was it more like sheetmetal sunday or spotwelding sunday.

I love where this is going!

Finally I can show you my solution for pumps. It took me several weeks because you always need to wait for some parts.
Oil pump direction needed to be changed so I decided to go with double side belt. Cam driven fuel pumps need extra bearings for being belt driven. My solution is best for weight distrubution, best for straight and short lines and its easy to maintain.

Now the frame is 99% done
When I lifted it I was worried because it seemed heavy, So I brougt my 2 bathroom scaled and measured the weight.
The result was 140kg and 50:50 weight ratio.
My last car was made of steel, that was thicker and was only 20kg heavier. I was hoping 30kg less weight but nothing to do. There are still more pipes and sheetmetal covers than my last car da. Also the endplate for connecting transmission was attached so the diffrece is atleast 25kg compared docol vs steel. Its still cheap place to lower the weight. That 25kg cost me about 1000€ (pipe material price difference) Later I´m sure, I can´t find a place where I can get so cheaply some weight off, its 50€ per 1kk, its good balance I quess.
Also you can see something new there: Anti roll bar, I made it from bmw axle, my last car had none of these.