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Looking at parts do I need a HD cross shaft? And if so just the shaft or bushings and all?




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Schweg wrote: ↑Sun Oct 06, 2019 6:49 am Looking at parts do I need a HD cross shaft? And if so just the shaft or bushings and all?

HD cross shaft is nice to do while you are in there. Sucks to do after it breaks. The shaft should confer with bushings. I'm not a fan of the red urethane bushings on anything, buy one that comes with bronze bushings if possible.

Thanks Chip.

Kinda figured that if it’s open swap it just wanted to make sure it’s not a snake oil part


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I just put an extra weld on mine and has held so far. Could fail tomorrow though.

buguy wrote:I just put an extra weld on mine and has held so far. Could fail tomorrow though.

Where did you weld it at?


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Again, I am having troubles posting here.

I had a brain fart I guess but what was distracting me was what the boot and, especially, what axle looked like. Was it you that said the axles were covered in something? If not that axle looks rusted and that isn't a good thing as the pitting can cause the axle to have the potential of torsional weakness.

If not ignore this and the other post if it does appear.

Lee

Ol'fogasaurus wrote:Again, I am having troubles posting here.

I had a brain fart I guess but what was distracting me was what the boot and, especially, what axle looked like. Was it you that said the axles were covered in something? If not that axle looks rusted and that isn't a good thing as the pitting can cause the axle to have the potential of torsional weakness.

If not ignore this and the other post if it does appear.

Lee

The axle is rusty for sure, I assumed it was surface rust. They are on the list to upgrade eventually


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I just replaced mine this spring. My hooks for holding the throwout bearing were worn quite a bit compared to the new one.
The HD shafts have a better weld on the two arms compared to the heat/friction style welding the stock ones have. I messed my stock shaft up trying to beat the throw arm off when I wanted to extend the length.
Use a cheap puller to get the throwout arm off instead of a hammer.....like I did....
I damaged the C-clip and bushing when I tried to force the arm off.
They are cheap to buy and fairly easy to replace.....if the engine is out.

Right thur

Clone- thanks I was hoping you would chime in did t want to bug you with a PM. I do remember reading about it but couldn’t remember what got broke.

Buggy- thanks for the photo.


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Like torsion bars the axles do a lot of twisting especially if the abuse is on purpose. As I have said before: stress like electricity likes to travel in the easiest route and the outside of a solid is that "easy route. Scratches also are like machined threads in a fastener; they disturb the grain flow in the bolt the that manufacturing tries to get in line (part of the manufacturing process).

As you know even scratches can cause a torsion bar to fail easier than a perfect one. Axles are the same; pitting is affecting the surface of the half-shaft. Bruising or scratching of the metal on the exposed IRS half-shaft (no tube like protection like there is in a standard axle housing) is something that us'n off-roaders and racers can't avoid as there is always a rock or something like that that doesn't like being disturbed or dug out of it's bed so it gets even . Something us'n off-road riders and some racers need to be aware of.

Anyway, carry on as you are like all of us... learning as we go.

Lee

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.as ... D5149%2DKT

What options should I go with on the kit above? I’m leaning towards the 2100, and a Cush lock disk.

I called the company was no help.

Also not sure what Throwout bearing I need.

The code on my transmission is Dc0395896

All my searches say it’s a type 3 tranny from 68’

Any help here would be great!




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I'm running a real Kennedy Stage II PP and a CB Performance Super disc. With some ..031" shims it gives me 250 plus ft lbs. of holding force.
A Daiken 503A gave me only 175 ft lbs. of holding force.
Make sure you test your existing combo before removing it to see what you need to gain.

I would go with a Kennedy PP even if they cost a bit more but that's just me. YMMV.

My Stage I and the CB disc handled 22 lbs of boost for a couple years. I'm thinking it was the power shifts that finally did it in. I don't let off much when banging through the gears and once it slipped a little it was all over for it. It slipped once I hit 23 lbs of boost with the intercooler installed.

Edit......
I just priced a PP, CB Super Disc, Throwout bearing and HD cross shaft and it came to $235.00 plus shipping at CB Performance.
You could bag the throwout bearing and just repack the grease in the stock one. I did that with mine this spring. Carefully pop the cover off the back side and put some bearing grease in it and then put the cover back on. If you are going Stage II then I would put a new HD cross shaft in it. You might want to find a longer arm too....or make one.

You should find an old mainshaft and weld a socket or nut on it so you can test the torque of the disc before installing it. That way you can shim it for better results or see if it gives better holding power than the old one.

Thanks Clone!

Where did you get the shins?


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8mm wavy washers.......