Drag and Drive Baja

[Schweg]

On my big beef manifolds I just took a little grinder to the intake to open up more room for a nut.

I had that thought, Are your studs short? Mine seemed like I would only get half the nut threaded?


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[Clonebug]

On my big beef manifolds I just took a little grinder to the intake to open up more room for a nut.

I had that thought, Are your studs short? Mine seemed like I would only get half the nut threaded?


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I had the same problem with my new intakes.....The stock studs were too short. I ended up going to my local "Ace Is The Place" hardware store and getting longer studs.
That then causes an issue with getting the spark plug wires on......
It's so much fun upgrading ...isn't it???
I pulled one out and took it along and picked the next longest one. It was a little long but it still worked. They didn't have the size in between.
I think it was a 44mm long one.
The stock ones are I think 38mm.

[Clonebug]

I wouldn't use bolts. The aluminum threads in the heads really aren't for install and removal.
If you take a 4 1/2 inch grinder with a cutting wheel you can carefully trim a little material on the intakes away to clear the nuts.
I also use those stepped nuts and they work great. Use a wavy washer under them and just grind a small flat into the washer once you have enough clearance for that nut above.
I had to clearance my big beef modified manifolds from Mario too. Not a lot but enough to make the nut sit flat.
That is what those fat manifolds are made for....so you can port the insides and trim the outsides to fit your build.

Wavy washers have the same problems and more that split washer have. The are also several different designs to them and, if I remember correctly, they are designed also for more light weight use; kind of like star washers are used mostly for light weight electrical work.

I find most bolts and nuts on a VW are what I consider light duty so the wavy washer works well enough......Most of the studs came that way from the factory.
Torquing between 12-18 ft. lbs. is not a heavy duty application in my eyes.

I buy wavy washers every time I see them for sale in 6mm,8mm,10mm and 12mm. I usually replaced them after a couple uses.....or lose them......

[Schweg]

On my big beef manifolds I just took a little grinder to the intake to open up more room for a nut.

I had that thought, Are your studs short? Mine seemed like I would only get half the nut threaded?


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I had the same problem with my new intakes.....The stock studs were too short. I ended up going to my local "Ace Is The Place" hardware store and getting longer studs.
That then causes an issue with getting the spark plug wires on......
It's so much fun upgrading ...isn't it???
I pulled one out and took it along and picked the next longest one. It was a little long but it still worked. They didn't have the size in between.
I think it was a 44mm long one.
The stock ones are I think 38mm.

Thanks for the info and yeah upgrading is always fun! Some times more then others.

Need to get some photos up, got the manifold welded up by a friend.

Ben




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[buguy]

I think he already mentioned that running bolts in and out of aluminum is never the best idea.
Don't be afraid to take a little meat off of those manifolds. It doesn't take much to gain the clearance you need.

[Clonebug]

I took probably an 1/8 inch off mine to get clearance for the above mentioned nuts. A standard nut would be an absolute PITA to get enough clearance.
Order those nuts and wait for them..... then clearance just enough to make a socket or the box end of a wrench fit.

I wouldn't recommend using a bolt.....the heat cycles would stress the threads...I feel.

[Schweg]

I took probably an 1/8 inch off mine to get clearance for the above mentioned nuts. A standard nut would be an absolute PITA to get enough clearance.
Order those nuts and wait for them..... then clearance just enough to make a socket or the box end of a wrench fit.

I wouldn't recommend using a bolt.....the heat cycles would stress the threads...I feel.

Just saw the response about that above, sorry for double questions.

I’ll grab some nuts and clearance them.


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[Schweg]

I think he already mentioned that running bolts in and out of aluminum is never the best idea.
Don't be afraid to take a little meat off of those manifolds. It doesn't take much to gain the clearance you need.

He did. I don’t read well... I’ll drag them into work I have access to professional welders and a fab shop so if I screw up they can help me fix it.


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[Ol'fogasaurus]

The amount of "meat" added to a flange is mathematically based on a lot of things. One of the things is the loading of things moving back and fourth and side to side and the way these loadings affects these things. The fasteners attaching and supporting seeming simple things also fall into these seeming simple things. Something as simple as doing something like converting from a single carb to dual carbs changes the amount of loading (mass) on the fasteners designed for the single carb manifold and carb itself plus the other goodies needed for the conversion.

Not being a turbo person but paying as much attention as I can (ignorance wise) to the different ways the turbo is being attached and plumbed. I haven't paid much detail attention to loading on the manifolds but there could be consequences... or not.

I think I am not necessarily helping but I tried; I think I am out of my league here so I'll quit while I am ahead (assuming I am anyway ).

Lee

[buguy]

I used the original nuts on mine. But those big beef manifolds are fat and they are completely unported, so there is still a lot of wall there. I will surely get something else though, I clearanced just enough to get a socket on them.

[sideshow]

I like that 10mm ATF nut for all intake applications, no washer to lose. Exhaust side they seem too small for that but in theory the would hold a washer very well.
Also I can fit 12mm ATF copper nuts (like https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Copper-Lo ... nuts-8.htm) sold for japanese cars (also my TDI use them OEM), but I usually take a tap to knock down, but not remove the anti loosen flaw.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I used the original nuts on mine. But those big beef manifolds are fat and they are completely unported, so there is still a lot of wall there. I will surely get something else though, I clearanced just enough to get a socket on them.

Its not so much the wall but its the mounting flange I was talking about. I've had a lot of chances to buy expensive intake manifolds with broken flanges cheap.

Lee

[Schweg]

Got that intake center section done!

While trying to allow for nut access I put a hole in the side of my 1/2 manifold. Had to call in a favor to get that welded but it’s mended.

Gonna try and get some time tonight and get parts on the car.


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[Ol'fogasaurus]

When I was hired back in the mid-60s discussing AN, AND, NAS and several other Military specs in the open was a dismissible offence. I still think that way but after doing some looking around on line I guess things have loosened up a bit so here is some history: http://blog.parker.com/an-37-flare-vs-i ... difference

The only reason I can see for locking goop is things are worn out or the soft line they are supporting'/connecting isn't supported well enough so it would cause loading that the fitting was not designed for. Proper torqueing (too loose/too tight) is probably part of the mix also.

Lee

[Schweg]

Got the new big manifolds on with the rails. Had to swap the fuel injectors to some Hyundai ones i had laying around also swapped the injector plugs. Fuel pump wired up. Need to mount the fuel pressure regulator, and build a fuel cross over. Amongst other things but that’s the biggest one.

Anyone have any insight on mounting items to the fan shroud?




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