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Ive actually got both! Did them last year, or maybe it was 2 years ago.

New problems being resolved. I haven't been able to get my wideband to read at all. It just jumps all around non stop and is impossible to use. I went out last night and worked "extra hard" to resolve exhaust leaks although I wasnt very confident in that fixing the issue. It didnt.

Long story short there is a lot of EMI in the system, and its causing the wideband to be useless. If I reach the sensor up the tailpipe without touching the sides, it reads well. As soon as it touches the exhaust in the most minute way, readings begins to flicker.

Any leads on removing EMI? Otherwise I am going to have to make some kind of goofy fireproof exhaust probe style attachment.

panel wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 3:31 pm

Therealkoop wrote: ↑Mon Feb 03, 2020 1:33 pm BOV is inoperable, needs to be adjusted or fiddled with. Its possible my vacuum signal from the two IDF vacuum ports is insignificant and I will need to tap the manifolds.

Where is the vacuum line connected to ? Above or below the throttle plates on the IDF's ?

They are attached to the "vacuum advance port". Someone mentioned to me today that they may not actually be below the throttle plates. Not sure, was thinking about putting some air into it and seeing what happens.

Therealkoop wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 3:39 pm

panel wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 3:31 pm

Therealkoop wrote: ↑Mon Feb 03, 2020 1:33 pm BOV is inoperable, needs to be adjusted or fiddled with. Its possible my vacuum signal from the two IDF vacuum ports is insignificant and I will need to tap the manifolds.

Where is the vacuum line connected to ? Above or below the throttle plates on the IDF's ?

They are attached to the "vacuum advance port". Someone mentioned to me today that they may not actually be below the throttle plates. Not sure, was thinking about putting some air into it and seeing what happens.

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That's not going to work well. You will need to hook it up to direct intake vacuum/boost.
Either drill the 4 manifolds or possibly you could use the vacuum ports on the carbs if you can find a hose barb that will match those threads.
You need a good vacuum signal so it pulls the valve open as soon as you shut the throttle plates.
As for the O2 sensor....make sure you have a good ground. Ground it to the battery if necessary.
What brand is it???

Is there any concern with basically creating a big balance tube by likig the 4 manifolds together if I were to drill/tap them?

Its a PLX bluetooth wideband. Right now the box it uses is grounded to the starter, I can try extending it to the battery and seeing how it affects the readings. Or, did you mean to ground the sensor itself?

What about resistor plugs? Right now I have NGK D8EAs. Not sure if DR8EAs would help any.

I think resistor plugs are a must with MS.

I think so too.

Sorry about butting in again but for what it is worth: when used, non-resistor plugs do generate a static source of some kind. When CBs were popular if, like I did, you ran non-resistor plugs you could get a lot of static via. the CB assuming you could get the CB to even work. I wonder if the output of the plugs could interfere with the electronics that are used now days.

Lee

Therealkoop wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 5:03 pm Is there any concern with basically creating a big balance tube by likig the 4 manifolds together if I were to drill/tap them?

Its a PLX bluetooth wideband. Right now the box it uses is grounded to the starter, I can try extending it to the battery and seeing how it affects the readings. Or, did you mean to ground the sensor itself?

What about resistor plugs? Right now I have NGK D8EAs. Not sure if DR8EAs would help any.

Do you have the engine or trans grounded to the frame???
I would make sure you have good grounds to everything and make the end result the battery ground.
I use a Fuse box for some grounds but I also have a main ground wire running from up front all the way to the battery in back for everything.
All my grounds up front or on the transmission ultimately end up at the battery. I also have a jumper wire from the ransmissionbolt to the frame side of the trans mount to make sure that is grounded.
Mine of course is FI but I haven't had any issues.

As for spark plugs it wouldn't hurt to try resistor plugs....they are only a couple bucks a piece so it would be cheap enough to try.

I have the PLX but not a Bluetooth and I have to say I have had no issues with it in the six years I've been running it.

I would link the four intakes together to get a good vacuum signal....you want the BOV to open as soon as you let off the throttle to keep the turbo from stalling.

Right now I have the battery relocated to the front, and a ground cable that runs all the way back and attaches to the engine where the starter/trans bolt comes through. Ill mess around with additional grounding and the different spark plugs and report back sometime. Weather turned back to winter recently so Ive been working on other projects.

Therealkoop wrote: ↑Fri Feb 07, 2020 8:28 am Right now I have the battery relocated to the front, and a ground cable that runs all the way back and attaches to the engine where the starter/trans bolt comes through. Ill mess around with additional grounding and the different spark plugs and report back sometime. Weather turned back to winter recently so Ive been working on other projects.

On long runs it is usually advised to go up a size cable or two. Also the ground size should match the size of the wire/cable. There are charts available showing the lengths were wire size should upgraded.

Lee

Nothing special. Just got my bars on- had to chop the downpipe a little to prevent it from being a nice little water cup. Set the fuel pressure which is SO easy with the return style setup. Some other small things. No testing on the EMI yet.

That's such a good looking package! I've been considering picking up a side by side for some off roading around here. Sand rail makes so much more sense. Probably not much larger either.

seems sand rail up here are a dime a dozen ,FB marketplace is loaded any where from a $1000-$3500 ect. I tell guys all the time their cheaper then a side by side:aka glorified Golf cart

Here too mike. Not sure why buggys are 12 grand and a sand rails are 2?!

Bank loans I'm thinking