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maybe you did

I will go out and check immediately

You sure did Thats why they call these 3-piece

Thanks again, Jørn

The flu is about to leave my body, so I made it to the garage tonight.

I thought I should get the inserts job started, but I wanted to check first how difficult it would be to cut M16 threads by hand i aluminum, so I started with a scrap piece of aluminum: I started by drilling a 14mm hole, and used a M16x2.0 thread cutter.

This went easier than I feared, so I felt encouraged enough to do the same on the case: Not to bad, if I must say it myself... The sealing surface for the cylinder is smaller than it was originally, but wider than what will be left on the barrel itself, so I still believe I can do without the spacer shims, but time will show. Anyways, I will have to make sure my inserts are installed below the sealing surface.

I felt encouraged by this first cut, so I fired up the manual thread cutting tool, and got myself some exercise: And after an hour or so this is the result: Finally I can get these caase halves properly cleaned, as it seems I am getting close to finishing the dirty work on these

Now I have to do the 8 on the other half, and then get over to my friends place and borrow his lathe in order to make the offset inserts.

Very cool!

Just thought I would post what my insert job looks like. Steel threaded plugs drilled and tapped after the plugs are installed. I also deck the block after I'm done. Rocky

You can clearly see a difference between a professional job and my DIY project

But one question, Rocky. Why do you deck the case? Is it in order to get an even, sealing surface, or is it necessary for other reasons?

I was under the impression that if the original sealing suface is undamaged, it would not be necessary, as I need to cut the length of the barrels anyways.

Two reasons first the inserts we use are larger when we deck the block it cuts into the insert so we have more surface for the spacer shim we use. 2nd we know the decks are true after we machine them. Rocky

Thanks, certainly looks good

Here is the other side after cutting 8 more threads: Now it is time for some serious cleaning

Any good ideas for removing the black deposits inside the engine?

Soda blasting

We hot tank to get the oil & dirt off, then soda blast only if the customer wants to spend more $. Rocky

I run a sandwich block for the oil cooler flow circuit together with the shorty Golf 030 oil filter.

sandwich with thermostat or full flow through cooler?

I am also interested in pics of engines with this combo, as I am concerned with the available space

slow progress, but I did get a couple of issues sorted today also.

first I started on a trigger wheel setup, and the plan is to use the flywheel itself. After some measuring and head-scratching, I ended up with a solution where I will place the holes on the line going through the center of the pressure plate mounting holes. I had a couple of options, and this picture shows the two before I landed on the outer one: Having decided on the placement, I could drill a mounting hole for the hall sensor: The idea is to drill 35 (36-1) holes along the line, so that the sensor will pick up a nice pulse-train. The holes need to be about 11mm in diameter.

Lastly I brought the case down to the local car-wash and cleaned it with the high-pressure gun. There are still some deposits inside, but at least the muck that is gone, is gone....

Cool! Nice idea on the trigger wheel, my drilled pulley uses 6mm holes and for the missing tooth uses a double wide slotted hole.... Instead of missing drilling, unsure if it matters either way you go