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Nice and smooth..
Love it.

Didn’t see in here if your fan is welded or not?
Make sure it is.
Serp belts don’t slip like v-belts at high rpm.
Also make sure it’s balanced..

kangaboy wrote: ↑Thu Aug 01, 2019 6:41 am That tinware looks cleaner than some of my dishes!! Looks great.
Curious of the oil pressure gauge placement. Seems like it will only do you any good at idle. Where did your stock oil pressure sensor go? No more idiot light? Did you have that case welded to move it from the stock location?

Thank you, yeah the oil pressure gauge will only be useful when I have the decklid open and it should work throughout the rpm range as long as my o/p relief valves are working:) the gauge is placed in the main oil galley just aft of the original sending unit port and as far as the o/p sensor it is one of those vdo dual pole sending units that operates a idiot light and gauge and it will go in the stock location I just haven't put that on the block yet

Thanks Mike and Clatter, check and check on the fan it's a welded/balanced unit

V8Nate wrote: ↑Thu Aug 01, 2019 8:24 am ...as far as the o/p sensor it is one of those vdo dual pole sending units that operates a idiot light and gauge and it will go in the stock location I just haven't put that on the block yet...

Those dual pole VDO senders suck...from my experiences anyway. If you get low oil pressure or your idiot light comes on at idle, just assume that thing is the cause. Just an FYI

Thanks KB I have ran into that in the past I think the light comes on at like 15psi or something if I remember right. I'm pretty sure I read a write up where a guy took the sending unit apart and adjusted the pressure that the light came on. I'll have to see how it goes when its running:)

I think I found the problem, it definitely got hot at some point on the drivers side axle. This is the side I had an axle bearing explode, which is what screwed up the axle tube for sure

Looking great!

Thanks Reuben it's coming along. Just ordered a set of chromoly axles from sway away for 300 for a pair:) 4 week back order though but well worth it

9/22 update
Still waiting on the axles, but in the meantime I have cut the rusty lower quarter out, wire wheeled and por15 the rusty metal behind it, welded the new lower quarter and started the body work. Still have a little high spot to knock down and 1 more coat of mud then some prime and block time for paint. I set the rear main seal and end play on the motor, one thing I found was when I took my parts to get balanced I grabbed the wrong pressure plate. It's still a 1700 pound pp but it's an empi unit and I was wanting to us my new Kennedy pp. So I'm going to give the balancer a call and see how much that will run to get balanced. Also put together a wire harness for my gauges and made some templates for my engine bay upholstery:) poop by the time I get this done it'll be winter time.lol

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Got the quarter panel DP'd and shot with a couple coats of k36:)

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Time goes by way too fast 3 months since my last post! In that time I went to Germany and Amsterdam with my wife, finished spraying the quarter panel and started wet sanding it(its still only to 1000 grit needs to be rubbed out and polished) I was waiting and waiting on the axles and had to cancel my order due to the fact that I'd have to wait till March. I was going to order some thru Wolfgang int. but spoke with Steve Phillips and he gave me some good advice instead of just making a sale which I appreciated so I found a good stock axle to replace the messed up one(I am pretty sure it got screwed up when the axle bearing exploded) new side gears and fulcrum plates installed. Cleaned up a spare l/h axle tube and put the trans back in the car. I had to make e-brake cables for the rear disk brakes to go around all of my air ride bits and also made support brackets for the lower bag mounts. Got out the Singer sewing machine and made the upholstery for the firewall(still have to make the sides) cleaned up the wiring in the engine bay and installed a distribution block so each motor can have it's own wiring harness. Then while I was wiring up my gauges I decided to tear apart my trunk and take care of and tidy up my wiring up front. I'm also removing my bn4 gas heater, I really liked how I made it fit and it being different but the more I thought about it I have too much money and time wrapped up in it to risk an explosion if I got into a front end collision so I'm pulling that out and I have one of those Chinese 8k diesel heaters I'm going to install. I finally brought the motor up to the garage from under the house so soon enough I'll be bolting it up:)

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Looking Great Nate, you have many skills. Hope you torque the gland nut higher than 250, anything above a stock motor gets torqued to 375 for me. Keep up the good work.
Kenric

woodsbuggy1 wrote:Looking Great Nate, you have many skills. Hope you torque the gland nut higher than 250, anything above a stock motor gets torqued to 375 for me. Keep up the good work.
Kenric

Thanks Kenric, I did indeed torque it to 250 but am open to suggestions:) it's a chromoly gland nut and crank if that makes a difference last thing I'd want is the flywheel coming loose!

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Started fitting the diesel heater today, it fits quite nicely

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Nice work Nate... your progress is impressive

I’m still impressed by the good looking tinware

The heaters you guys have in the colder areas of the world are quite interesting and fascinating Here in SA, we would really like to go the opposite way and fit an AC system if it was a possibility ....I have a personal sauna every time I have to stop at a traffic light

Riaan wrote:Nice work Nate... your progress is impressive

I’m still impressed by the good looking tinware

The heaters you guys have in the colder areas of the world are quite interesting and fascinating Here in SA, we would really like to go the opposite way and fit an AC system if it was a possibility ....I have a personal sauna every time I have to stop at a traffic light

Thanks Riaan:) I have seen a few bugs fitted with a/c and I'm sure someone makes a kit for bugs.

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