The Aufgeladen Ghia

[xzener]

If the WBO2 module is integrated into the ECU theren’t anything you can do about the wiring. The sensor has a ground from the heater element which is pretty noisy. Some WB modules separate the signal earth from the heater earth, so you can keep the latter away from the ecu. You could test the set up with the WB daughter board removed (if that is possible) to see if the sync errors remain or not. Just as a temp diagnostic process.

For my car, the first tune was open loop idle. Get the warm idle sorted and stable. Tap the throttle to correct a circle of cells, trying to hit as many as possible. Adjust the cells around the corrected ones to logical values. Rev up the rpm range to correct the top load cells (mine is NA). Once idle & light throttle cells up to 2k are good, stab the throttle to see if it stumbles hard. Add a bit of accel enrichment to prevent stalling (I probably did this after the first tuning drivie and used slow throttle inputs initially). One the road with fast auto-tune use lots of cells in the map. I left foot brake for a few seconds to hold an rpm figure while gradually adding throttle to map cells in a line. Not for long though or you will cook the brakes. Do some pulls with progress amounts of throttle. After that, do some manual smoothing of missed cells. Do another couple of tuning drives to get closer. Then add more accurate accel enrichment (can be done at a standstill since you care about how the engine responds and not the lambda reading). Finally add in the closed loop idle. That was roughly my approach after watching a lot of tuning videos!

Thanks Bruce. If I have an ECU grounding issue causing sync loss... You recommend a troubleshooting method I am not comfortable with. This sync loss is the last thing standing in my way of driving. I even took a year off due to my frustrations. I'm back a year later with the same issue. Ive fabricated numerous mounts, ensuring .5mm gap... Tried 3 different sensors to no resolve. I'm at a point where I want to rewire my car with a Fueltech or similar ECU. But will that fix my sync loss? I am feeling defeated, and discouraged from this. I just want to drive my car. After fiddling with setting further, I am now convinced it will not be resolved. I honestly don't know what, or where to go next. The crank sensor is the beating heart of a fuel injected engine, is it time to pull the plug and go with a more mainstream ECU? That seems to be where I'm at. Unfortunately, these ECU's are expensive... May be a while before I have the money to continue with this car. Really starting to regret this FI journey... I miss my Magnaspark II distributor.

[Bruce.m]

Actually, just unpluging the WBO2 sensor will test if that is the source of noise. Ideally the sensor should be removed from the exhaust but I assume your sync loss counter is ticking up soon enough.

No guarantee it’s anything to do with that module/sensor but you get to the root cause via a process of elimination.

I had a couple of issues with my efi. Poor crank sensor which I replaced with a ZF hall sensor. That sensor I wired up incorrectly due to misunderstanding the wiring colours, so fried it. Got another ZF sensor and it fired up instantly. Figuring out the 1st two issues took a fair amount of diagnosis, with multimeter, tuner studio trigger log and even an oscilloscope. Later, i had brutal noise issues due to my WBO2 wiring. Enough to cause false triggering of the coils & injectors while the engine was static & not cranking. Again that took some diagnosis time. I figured out some temp workarounds in TS to minimise the issue since i was using the car until I figured it out (WB module earth was spliced into ECU earth, not independent back to the common earthing point). Last year i added a dash but that also had some problems. Early this year a firmware update was released for the ECU which may fix those issues. Ill find out when i get it back on the road.

[panel]

xzener.....Can you post your AFR table ? Not the VE table. The one you'll use to tune to and tune your VE table to get it closer to the AFR table you want. I'm just curious etc.

[panel]

Here's a write up re the Accel enrichment tuning.

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tec ... ou%20don't.

You'll have to take a look at the logs really to narrow it down.

[Clonebug]

The important part of that article is......get the VE table set first.......Every adder is based in percentages above the VE table......... Accel enrich....cold start.....warm up enrichment..... IAT adjustment and most any other enrichment.
Don't worry about start up or any other thing until it drives really good once warm........that means idle, cruise and full throttle.

[xzener]

I had brutal noise issues due to my WBO2 wiring. Enough to cause false triggering of the coils & injectors while the engine was static & not cranking.

Starting to think I may have a similar issue. I had the key on to ACC, engine not running... All the sudden, my crank relay clicked?!?! How is that possible? I mean, you can rotate the crank and get the crank trigger to register. But it just sitting there? Something is causing this issue. My sensor cable runs right along the case, Im sure heat does not help. I fabricated a heat shield for the cable. Still have the random sync loss, so its not that. I will disconnect my WBO2 sensor and report my results. I will also post up my AFR Target table for Panel.

[xzener]

Well, it was bound to happen... I'm very happy with the results of the intercooler. Time to make it permanent. No room under the car, except for behind the muffler. I think I'm gonna buy a deck lid and have some fun with this. But, in the meantime I will raise the deck lid back up (maybe more than before) and fabricate some mounts for above the supercharger, angled to retrieve good airflow. This location will make it easy to run the plumbing. Basically fom the intercooler out, to the heat exchanger, to the reservoir. Just have to splice it in, no problem.

PXL_20250326_234302254.jpg

[Piledriver]

FWIW, Megasquirt documentation goes to great lengths to make sure the ecu is not directly connected to the battery ground. and explains why. Also:note clip-on ferrites are cheap, removable/relocatable and quite good at suppressing electrical noise, esp high frequency noise. See section 3.2
https://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS ... e-3.4.html

Also: ground is not your friend... its never really ground. it will taunt you if you look too hard..

[xzener]

I intend on verifying my grounds... to include relocating the one that goes strait to the negative terminal on my battery. Did not think about using ferrite wire clips... Where do you recommend adding those? Around the crank sensor cable?

[Piledriver]

Power, with several turns, sensor cables, ignition drivers, any sensor grounds need to go back to same ground on ecu.
I have worked on million++$$$ equipment with herds of those things all over the wiring ...from the factory...
...but most importantly they can do no harm, and if the current location doesn't help, try the other end.

[xzener]

So ferrite clamps all over the sensor cables? Couldn't hurt I guess.

Returned the heat exchanger. Found a smaller dual pass. Removed the third brake light, relocated the oil breather, parts on order.

PXL_20250329_005207766.jpg

[Clonebug]

How about a pic of your wiring harness.
Are each of your sensors and injectors in their own wrap and twisted together like Mario's harnesses are????
If your harness is just all the wires wrapped together without twists it's probably a good chance that is an issue.
Twisting wire pairs stops the cross talk and good grounding is another very important part of a harness.


Here is a pic as I was building my harness when I was swapping to MS2 Ver. 3.0
Every sensor is twisted together and wrapped separately then wrapped together to make a single harness.

[xzener]

I bought my kit from Mick Percy (Joeblow). His wire harness seems top notch. I don't know about the twisting of the wires, but functionality wise, seems good. Sent the ECU and IAC back to him a while back. Got a new firmware upgrade and working IAC (had sync loss issues prior to that). The only thing I repined was the IAC, that was with Mick's instruction during troubleshooting. But since getting the ECU back, everything seems to be running correctly... Minus the sync loss.

So anyway... Relocated the ECU ground. I've gotten a couple sync losses here and there, but not nearly the numbers I was getting before. Not sure if its that, or me changing the idle to 11 degrees. The loss was much worse at 10 where I was aiming for. Tonight, I just logged a cold start with no sync loss the entire 6+min recording. Still waiting for the heat exchanger... Third ones the charm. Have all the fittings, just need a properly sized heat exchanger. Pesky deck lid hinges cramping my ideas. Still wanna toss in some ferrite clamps too... Call me crazy, but I still think something is wonky there.

I see some areas I can improve on regarding the IAC during warmup. Getting the IAC to lower to running temperature has been trial and error. As ASE trickles down, the engine wants to hunt (having a supercharger doesn't help), so I've been tweaking it. I've come leaps and bounds with all this stuff, thanks to everyone here!

[Clonebug]

Make sure your ignition map has an area where the idle is that all the numbers are the same. Any change in ignition advance is going to affect the idle speed.
Set your IAC valve so that it is open a little bit at normal idle so it has room to adjust down to lower the idle once you commit to closed loop idle.

I use a GM style IAC 4 wire stepper motor and my idle is at 20 steps. Remember that the first little bit and the last bit of movement will not make any idle changes.....so in essence you are using about the 20%-80% range of motion or somewhere around there.
It takes awhile to get it set perfect. I've been messing with mine a long time and it still could probably use a little tweaking...but it runs pretty darn nice now.
That last little bit is not easy.

[Piledriver]

The areas that do not cause change should be ignored when setting the upper an lower limits...
Otherwise Murphy says the ecu will try to use those areas with no effect... PID loops hate dead spots.