Drag and Drive Baja

[Schweg]

Anyone able to help me get a grasp on setting up closed loop boost control?

[Clonebug]

I tried it for a while....getting it set up is a trial and error thing and I don't like doing that many full power runs in one place. I found open loop to work just about as well if set up right.

Just remember one axis is throttle % and the other is rpm. I run 95% on boost controller from 0-80% throttle and idle to full rpm. I only cut the duty at over 80 % throttle and then adjust to get the boost amount I want.
On mine that was anything over 3500-4000 rpm.
So basically most of the map was 95% and the upper right corner was down to 67-78% depending on how much boost I wanted.

For you I would set up the map to 95 % from 0-75% throttle and 600-5500 rpm. The rest just set at 65% and see what it does. If you need more boost go up 5 percent at a time to see how much it changes.

Closed loop is a little more complicated but really gains you very little for the complication.

I'd have to hunt pretty hard to find my settings since I haven't run Open Loop in probably two years or more and then only for a short time.

[buguy]

What if you just turn it off?

[Schweg]

Buggy- if I turn it off I would get close to what I have. Or just spring pressure

Clone- I have my open loop dialed in and it hits the boost pressure I want. all the things I have read though is that closed loop will allow you to spool faster and make more power below the curve. I appreciate the response.

I just can't figure out how to tune closed loop and if it references the open loop table or no. beyond that it should just be tune it with a slider

[buguy]

I was just thinking with it off you could see how it behaves up to spring pressure. I personally don't really know how boost control actually works either. I just screw with it until i get the pressures i want!

[Schweg]

I ran a few pulls just spring. I need to go back and check them again. I had a plan to run the high pressure turbo on spring only and modulate the low pressure with a controller. But maybe I’ll run both on springs or neither! Guess I just need to run logs and see.

[Schweg]

So I got a wild hair today and decided to swap back to the TD04-13t from the 9b.

All I can say is wow. It is pretty crazy how a turbo has such a large difference on how the engine runs and delivers power it is night and day! These things enjoy the 13t so much better then the 9b and with minimal spool difference.

one random question any one know if there are hot keys for the menus in tuner studio like
the tools drop down? I cannot see it on my digital dash to add a custom channel.

[buguy]

When are you going to put that Holset on there and try that one?!

[Schweg]

I’m not. I have different one in mind one of the HE2211 series’s I want to get for a small engine.

The 12cm exhaust housing is like a 1.02 A/R so I’m not inclined to think my low rpm engines will move enough air to spook them

[Schweg]

So I’m sure that I hurt my engine in some way and it seems to be getting worse and worse. Doesn’t like to start when cold, seems to be low compression.

I think I glazed the cylinders about 2 months ago when I swapped turbos I was running around at 9:1 afr for a bit.

That said I have 90% of the parts I need to rebuild a new engine it’ll be a 1697 with some 041 heads a SCAT c25 cam. Nothing crazy but should be a nice change of pace

[Clonebug]

Do a compression test on it.
Although....My engine had basically zero compression and still ran pretty good for at least 3000 miles after I thought something was wrong.
The only clue was a slight miss at idle when warm.
After a compression test take out the one way valve on the compression testing hose and put air to the cylinder through the spark plug. Most testing hoses have a coupler that will work an air hose fitting. At least the one style that is a universal fitting.
You will be able to tell where it's leaking from whether it's valves, rings, cracked pistons or cracked cylinders.....or lifted heads.

As for that cam...it has less lift than the W-100 even when using 1.25 rockers.
If you have a C/W crank you should try to move the power band up a little more in order to get your peak hp/torque and therefore max hp higher in the rev range.
RPM is king in making hp after all.

With all that being said......I have tried a few things to make more power and for the money a stock or almost stock engine with a turbo and low IAT's is the cheapest way to gain hp.

[buguy]

Will you be using stock ratio rockers?

[Schweg]

I have 1:25 ratio rockers.

I know this is not going to be the most powerful set up but it’s build practice for my stroker in a few years.

I couldn’t afford to build what I wanted and knew mine was hurting. I may run a leak down and diagnose what went wrong but it will be after the new build. I want the cam and Full flow for the time being.

[Bruce.m]

Simplistically, Duration sets the rpm power band. Lift uses the port flow capacity.

[Schweg]

It’s the cam I have and I’m not buying a new one this go round.

So even with limited duration I have what I have


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