T4 Into T3 Build Questions - With Reference Links for Future Swaps

[Bruce.m]

The extra wire (brown) is the earth which connects to the casing. Correct in the photo, not shown in the diagram.

[nogoodwithusernames]

The old conversion worked just fine (I had a diagram to use to hook it up!) But now I've got to figure out how to go from that internally regulated alternator to the T4 alternator which I don't think is internally regulated.


I think it may be easiest to pick up a T4 voltage regulator then I can get rid of the original T1 style regulator and associated wires. Then I just run the B+ on the alt over to the starter and battery cable, and then tie the regulator into the gen light in the dash. Just two wires that way, and even I can figure that out. Leave the old VR B+ wires all tied together just like the old alternator and it should be good to go.

Been pulling my hair out for almost an hour to figure even that much out btw

[nogoodwithusernames]

Well I just finished up cleaning up the MS2 wiring under the back seat. Looks way better under there, not so many “nest of rats” vibes. Took all day but been needing to do that since I got the MS2 running, and I figured I was under there anyways to get the board setup for hall crank sensor from Mario instead of the old VR sensor. Just need to change the terminal end so I can actually plug in the hall in the engine compartment and find somewhere to mount a VR (for now I’m stealing it from my 914 to get it figured out.)

[nogoodwithusernames]

Another long day today prepping the car and mocking up the engine. Put the "longblock" together and stuffed it in the car with top tins, breastplate and threw on the manifold and fan shroud to get wires all ran where the need to go. (Alternator wires will be re-done in the same black braided covering, and mount the regulator to the front tin probably where it's sitting in the photo.) Again, much neater wiring than it used to be which I'm happy about. Not perfect for sure, but not bad for an amateur.

Made some notes where the front tin needs to be modified a bit, and need to make a few changes to the fuel routing so I can actually fit the pressure regulator (overrated I know ) but most of the way there.

Fan boot adapter works, it's a bit of a wrestling match to get the boot in though.

Engine mocked up, engine cover even closes still

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[twodollardoug]

Nice work. You're getting closer. I have a 62 bus that I will be doing the same thing to. But I will be carbureted

[nogoodwithusernames]

Got a shortblock this weekend (really got more done but waiting on USPS to un-lose my wrist pin clips to replace the one I bent...) If anything gets put on it gets torqued so no worry of forgetting things like on a certain Lambretta

CB finally got swivel feet adjusters back in stock so ordered those up and should be here this week.

I *might* have this done soon!

And some photos for anyone that cares to see *another* shortblock

[wreck]

moving along ,it's nice in a project when you get to start finally bolting things together for hopefully the last time . I'll be putting mine engine back together this weekend all going well .

[nogoodwithusernames]

Soooo, brought my rocker arms to work to mill them down a bit for the swivels and that's not gonna happen... They are pretty dang hard. I'm going to see how they fit first and grind them down if I need to I suppose. No idea how you're supposed to countersink them after the fact since they're hardened??

[wreck]

I used a grinder carefully . you can also use type 1 rocker shims or make your own . some 1/16 alloy flat bar for example . My rockers are spaced about 7mm to suit longer valves and springs .
I was worried about miss alignment because the valves and rocker posts are not parallel ( the more spacers the closer the rocker gets to the valve.But
looking at the wear after 20,000km the wear pattern is still in the centre of the elephant foot .

With spacers you will have to check rocker geometry and maybe fit new pushrods . you may have to do this if the new cam has a smaller back circle than the stock cam anyway .

[twodollardoug]

I used a grinder also. With a flapper wheel.

[Clatter]

You said you needed a T4 voltage regulator?
Have the funny cooling tin plate and all for it?



FWIW,
You'll not want to remove more than about .060" from the rockers to clear swivel feet.
Much more, and you run risk of fouling the oil hole..

I take a small file and make a little groove thru the threads to connect the oil hole to the clearance area.
The idea in my head is that it will be spraying into the swivel..
Not sure if it's real, or just in my head, though..

RIP Lambretta.. Don't be like me.

[Ephry73]

Great read indeed. Still waiting for the right candidate for me to start working on.

Still collecting parts for a 2.0 or 2.3 motor.

Keep posting guys. Perfect motor combo for such a great little car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nogoodwithusernames]

Sweet thanks for the feedback guys, I'll mockup rockers on the half of the motor that's buttoned up and see how much work they need to fit right.
I removed the stock shim and head gasket, and used .020" barrel shims so it *should* be right about stock width and setup nicely with stock pushrods. We shall see...

Still waiting on USPS for my last wrist pin clip, but got news that it's in transit again so it should show up eventually.

[twodollardoug]

I grinded my rockers down till I could get a 10mm open end wrench over them. Then counter sunk them although I don't remember the angle of the counter sink I used.

[nogoodwithusernames]

Alrighty, got the long block together and started mocking up rocker geometry and we're at a no go... I need to decide if I want to buy some new pushrods, or try geometry with stock adjusters. Here's some photos at half lift. As you can see the adjuster is already well past parallel with the valve at this point.
Not sure which way I want to go now... Opinions?