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Here's a blatant parts advertisement
I have pulleys for the Oxy/Wassers with or without crank triggers that work with the standard oil seal, steel hub with separate bolt on pulley

No problem, Paul

There has been few updates here lately, but one thing I actually already did, was to decide on a CB pulley for dry sump pumps, and a generator pulley for 356 engines, which is a bit smaller than original, as can be seen on this picture: This combo will give me about 14% less fan speed, but I hope that the higher operating rpm range on this engine compared with a n original, and the fact that an original fans start slipping on the belt before it reaches max rpm combined will ensure I get enough cooling out of this setup.

It turned out that the flywheel I bought was lightened, hence it had material removed excatly where I had planned to drill the holes for the hall sensor, so I need to relocate the sensor. It this does not work out, I will seriously consider Paul's trigger wheel/pulley setup, as it looks like a very good setup.

Talking about good looking setups, I finally decided to keep my old trusty 1835 completely assembled as a spare engine (or just "nice to have" for a new planned project), so I ended up ordering a pair of these for this engine: I also came across a good deal on a JPM cam and lifter kit, so there are some minor adjustments to the engine as it moves along.

But at least it is moving along

I don't have a Vee belt dry sump pulley for the wasser hubs,there isn't enough meat to get the sensor in although i do know someone modified one and got it to work. It all gets a bit thin
I tend to use a flat belt when dry sumping

Grelland, who make those manifold/butterfly/injector set ups? Website?

Ian Godfrey wrote:Grelland, who make those manifold/butterfly/injector set ups? Website?

Me
http://www.vwspeedshop.com/product.php? ... 396&page=1

Paul

A little slow on the progress, but all the rotating parts are off for balancing and the barrels are off for shortening.

Meanwhile, I am playing around with cheap-o methods, and tonight I made a tool for cutting the lifter bores: Not too high-tech, but it works: Now the case needs a thorough cleaning, as I think I am done with the machine work, and would like to get rid of all the debris before I start assembly.

Cool!! I dabbled with boring some heads today and its great to try our own machining!

I have an old lifter with a piece of tool steel bit brazed on under the mushroom. It has a 3/8 socked brazed to the face for driving. Works same as yours, but includes vw parts

if your using bushes for T1 lifters, its best to fit the lifter bore bushes before decking them , otherwise they protrude, then you also need a T1 lifter sized cutter.

Good point. I will get the cam later this week, then I will measure whether I need to cut more

were you spinnig it quite fast?

that might very well be... I am not a machist

But fastback, on the other hand, he is just that, and a good one too, so he balanced my crank and flywheel assembly, and also did some of his magic on the flywheel: So now the rotating mass is balanced to be within the tolerances commonly used in touring cars, so my targeted 6500 rpms should be safe

I also received a cam-and-lifter kit and the new manifold/TB's so things are coming together.

really really nice looking flywheel i must say !

i love the idea of using it as a trigger also . less cabling in the front of the motor.

great stuff! keep it coming !

Top work from Fasty as usual, Are you also using the torque converter access port for the sensor mounting point grelland?, looks the same flywheel as i use, they are some very hard steel to machine i found. good stuff.