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turbobaja wrote:I hate to even think it, but how's your crank endplay? Could your pulley/sensor be loosing communication when you push the crank backwards with the clutch pedal?

That's the first thing that came to my mind... hope it's not, but it sure sounds like it.

I just went out and checked my end play as close as I could. about .025"................ But I don't think that is enough to kill the field.

Turbo_Manx_Maniac wrote:My car is dirty from using it so much.

Hell yeah! Hey, did you ever finish playing with the stepper idle valve

MarioVelotta wrote:I just went out and checked my end play as close as I could. about .025"................ But I don't think that is enough to kill the field.

I hope you meant .0025 not .025"

Steve Arndt wrote:

MarioVelotta wrote:I just went out and checked my end play as close as I could. about .025"................ But I don't think that is enough to kill the field.

I hope you meant .0025 not .025"

Nope, to the bad side... On the bright side of it, my crank trigger setup is acting as an anti total destruction device

Mine was 0.011 when I pulled my cracked case engine.

Max in book is .006 if I remember correctly.

.025 is a fair amount actually.

Clonebug

MarioVelotta wrote:

Turbo_Manx_Maniac wrote:My car is dirty from using it so much.

Hell yeah! Hey, did you ever finish playing with the stepper idle valve

LOL, totally forgot about that. Yeah I'm done, I'll try and remember to send it to you.


Works awesome, car starts with just the turn of the key, idles right up to ~1500 rpm and slowly drops to a normal idle as the car warms up, just like a regular car.

I'll send you the throttle body and valve, you can just keep it and hack it as you wish.

Clonebug wrote:Mine was 0.011 when I pulled my cracked case engine.

Max in book is .006 if I remember correctly.

.025 is a fair amount actually.

Clonebug

Your endplay has nothing on my endplay

Clonebug wrote:Mine was 0.011 when I pulled my cracked case engine.

Max in book is .006 if I remember correctly.

.025 is a fair amount actually.

Clonebug

I set new engines at .006", I wouldn't worry about .025" at all.

MarioVelotta wrote:

Clonebug wrote:Mine was 0.011 when I pulled my cracked case engine.

Max in book is .006 if I remember correctly.

.025 is a fair amount actually.

Clonebug

Your endplay has nothing on my endplay

Your endplay has nothing on my cracked case......

MarioVelotta wrote:I just went out and checked my end play as close as I could. about .025"................

Judging by your pause, you're at least somewhat concerned about that much end play. Do you have the blueprinting paperwork from your engine builder? That could be almost .020" wear on the thrust surfaces depending on how tight he set it up. I'd be at least slightly concerned, especially if it just suddenly grew enough to cause the stalling issue after a good beating like that. If that's the case, +1 reasons for going crank-fired.

Well TB, you got the nail on the head. After work I was able to hook up my laptop to see what was going on. I started it up, pushed the clutch and I get sync loss and no RPM. Bingo, thanks! Now for the big problems to deal with.

That sucks...

Dangit! Maybe you'll be able to just shim it back to "warn in" spec keep on rollin'.

I've got a sad excuse for a 1776/110 longblock that's only been sitting for a little over 8 years if you need a spare...


P.S. I've decided to tough it out at the shop in Bellevue, so there's still a digital alignment in your future if/when you feel the need .

.006 is worn out, beyond the wear limit. I like your "wear limit ignition cut" Mario. Mine will work the same way, it is very sensitive to airgap change and I have less than .015 sensor clearance now. Any changes in that, and it will show.

Look at it as a chance to upgrade, kinda like my recent lifter failure.

s