Hello im new proposed buggie build 1/4 miler

jes67 · Post by **jes67** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 4:17 pm

Hello, new to the forum ,would a shortened pan buggie ,that i have narrowed rear torsion 3 in. each side and raised rearhorn 6 in. narrowed front beam 4 in. total, 14 in. shorter pan , hi compression 1914 duel carb. motor this is my entry level into 1/4 racing, does for what little info ive given does this sound like I'm on the right path, safety first, have a great local fab shop to help,Franklins in the Seattle area,but I want some feed back on my proposed build Thanks

akabuzz · Post by **akabuzz** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 6:44 pm

Hey, welcome to drag racing, Youll need a helmet, jacket, gloves, and wrist restrainghts to run a open cockpit car (Buggy). start out slow and work your way up to see how the buggy handles at 100 mph, and remember if ya get out of shape, dont be a hero and try to save it, just let off the gas and try again next time. Most of all, have FUN.

mightymanx · Post by **mightymanx** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 10:27 pm

Wheelie bars are a MUST !!!!!! and make sure you have a good cage because in a manx there is not much except the cage between you and lots of hard objects.

You will have a blast running it they take some getting use to some thing with roughly the wheelbase of a golf cart going 100+ mph is some thing to be experienced.

Good cage and wheeliebars (long ones not the ones from summit or jegs adapted for bugs see my avatar)

I will be running @ Bremerton VW nationals july 8th stop by the pits if you want to get some Ideas off mine

Dan

mcbuggin · Post by **mcbuggin** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 5:07 am

Handling on the top end of the 1/4 can get a bit hairy with a buggy so try to keep your track width wide, a narrow beam has no advantage over a full length beam when drag racing (other than shaving a few pounds). Keep the beam layed back as much as possible using two sets of shims on the lower beam if necessary. Also check the NHRA rule book; if going slower than 11.99 you can get by with a roll bar but anything quicker will require a full cage.

Good luck and keep it straight (no left turns in drag racing).

jes67 · Post by **jes67** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:07 am

Hello, my goal is safety I will be at Bremerton,with my 67 and 17 year old ,I want to do chassis mods, fit body ,re trans to fab shop fit roll cage ,small wing wheely bars my reasoning for going to a pro shop is so all mod will be safe, Iwas thinking narrow beam just for tucking the front lower but points taken on narrow beam safety.Thanks

mightymanx · Post by **mightymanx** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 1:01 pm

Where are you Located ???

There are some options you can do to save $$$$ You don't have to go with all the chopped narrowed light "Bug" tricks. manx's are light enough with out all that. The trick will be getting good suspention to give you a good straight launch on the pan car. 20 inch wheelies look good but are slow and hard on the car.

Dan

jes67 · Post by **jes67** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 7:56 pm

Hello, input great I live in Skyway Wa. outside of Renton,I'm after the old lummis notchback drag car rear dragin, little lift in front, look , I have a relative who is pro fabricator,thats where I can save money I.E. chassis welding, pedal mounts,ect simple stuff but for straight down the track with safety first, I went to the pros rear torsion,degree angles ,launch,set-ups, but you can never get enough info so thats why I love to ask,and really all input, is valid Thanks

mightymanx · Post by **mightymanx** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:13 am

Some one else asked me for chassis pictures so I guess I will have to get off my lazy butt and pull the body off this weekend and take some I needed to clean the car anyway for Bremerton meet ill take some pictures and stuff.

Dan

al_inbancroft · Post by **al_inbancroft** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 6:14 pm

That was me Dan!

Thanks again.
Al

Eric T · Post by **Eric T** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 10:31 am

Is thing going to be a race car only or will it see the streets?
With a mild motor (for now, right?

) You will get hooked for the need for more speed!! We have a full chassis manx we run in PRA' Super Gas class (11.90 index) However the best pass has been 11.40 @ 118.
Build it safe first, don't just build it light, especially if its shortened. Build it on a stock pan, no need for narrowed beam or narrowed torsion housing we have no fenders to deal with. Save the money there and get a bitchin cage built. Just my .02

Welcome to the wonderfulworld of Drag racing!!!!

jes67 · Post by **jes67** » Sun Jun 25, 2006 2:45 pm

Hello, EricT for response, Safety is My goal, Track only, I'm prepaired for soon to be money hole, I own a big Boat in Seattle area, so I" m exp. in money pits,I have a little bit to spend , so it's Safety, Chassis, every thing else will fall into place as long as I stay on the path, I have trouble enough drivin my lowered 67 bug on the streets ,pot holes ,Idiot drivers ect, there is no way I'd think of it , nothing to prove in the streets, I'll take to local shows, trailored,or to the strip,trailored, I've got to many "safer' street runners ,65 dart 2 door post ,newer 318 on and on Very fast, 67 Type one 1835 so.so. fast, 69 T bird suicide door for Sunday cruise, all beatuiful cars but I think I'm ready for the strip, also a cool project for myself,and my son Thats why I want to be safe for all the people I support,Thanks

Eric T · Post by **Eric T** » Mon Jun 26, 2006 8:35 am

I also have a Dart, mines a 67 GT w/ 440 (race only). If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask, even the ones you think are stupid, cause the might end up saving you "some" $.

jes67 · Post by **jes67** » Mon Jun 26, 2006 4:40 pm

Hello, thanks for the support I hope to keep up with dig. camera diary,I'm not going to narrow my front ,seems tires are set just perfect in body front wells, as long as they are narrow,135's,125's cant believe how my body is setting for my rear suspension,minimal cutting, I mean buggie body lines,rear area behind driver,is all gone,and all raised up to body belt line,I need to post pics Thanks

jes67 · Post by **jes67** » Mon Jun 26, 2006 5:35 pm

Hello,some shots,was going to tub ,but thought I would just cut at belt line behind driver, cap area,with rear extension for little wing ? take rear lite span above motor cut and pull back to new cap more motor room plus to keep the nice sideways lites, Lots of plans ,and yes lot's o cash,I'm over 40 and have learned no lots o cash no start project, but I'm not shootin for the 10's to start, so maybe just little lot's o cash , will work,There you caught me lieing to myself,Ha,Ha Much thanks for the support

volksnut · Post by **volksnut** » Mon Jun 26, 2006 6:40 pm

that thing is sweet, love the rear tail lights....I started out running 13.99 with my buggy, well that didn't last long, as it came down weekly it seemed....I got it down to 12.30 @ 102 with a 1679 and junk turbo and a Zenith 2 barrel, it was a street car drove to the track and run with street tires etc.....the car was built on a 55 pan and launched straight and handled great over 100 mph....I had a 6 point cage and tied it into the frame horns...I heard once you hit the 11's it's a whole new ball game..I've sold the car so no further testing was done
Heres a picture at Lakeland, check out Ken Fisher (white shirt) checking it out!