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Just rough fitted my new firewall

Posted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 5:44 pm
by dbcflash
Man! I just chisled out my old firewall and tapped the new one in. This project keeps getting bigger and bigger.
I started out thinking I might have to replace the running board mounting strip, then it turned into the heater channels, then the floors, then the front wheelhouse, then the rear quarters, then the front cross member and finally, the firewall.
I think I've run out of things to chisle off my car and replace.

The demolition has been nasty and sweaty and bloody at times. I hope the resurrection can start now.

I need some words of encouragement!

The car is a 1967 sunroof bug.

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 3:02 pm
by dbcflash
I spent the day modifying the firewall . There are a lot of extra holes and contours in this aftermarket piece that needed to be welded up.

I'm a complete novice with a welder, so this entire project is going to be virgin territory for me.

The welds I've accomplished today are satisfactory, I suppose.

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 7:03 pm
by Piper
keep at it! When you're done you'll have something to be proud of!

Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 4:04 pm
by Tuffluck
Hey Flash, did you use a spot weld removing bit? If so what brand? Do you have any pics of the old and new metal. I'd like to see the results. I am getting ready to do major surgery on mine, seeing some elses work would be a great insipration, thanks!

Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:55 pm
by dbcflash
I've been a little lax with the pictures. I used a drill bit to remove the spot welds. I learned from previous experiances that if you are disposing of one of the panels, it's just as easy to drill it out as it is to use a spot weld cutter.
I've been concentrating on the heater channels and quarters on one side of the car, but I'm about to turn it all around and start on the other side. I figure that leavong the body attatched to the tunnel and pan (whats left of it) will allow me to avoid distorting the body. I just make sure the door on the side I'm working on continues to operate properly, and it's a quick way to see if things are starting to become misaligned.

I have been lurking right behind CRVC as he is doing a similar thing to his car. His lead has helped me to avoid some mistakes.

Image

Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:24 pm
by Tuffluck
Looks good. That frame head looks a little beat tho. You putting it on a another chassis?

Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 5:24 am
by dbcflash
Once the body is solid again, the pan comes out. New frame head, pan halfs and suspension bits, as needed.

Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:31 am
by MNAirHead
wow.. sounds like a brand new Johnny Cash Car.

GREAT work.. we're learning tons from you

Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:31 am
by tim #19
never give up, it can be done. save what you can, replace what you cant. see soon in eff ill.

Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:57 am
by MNAirHead
Repanning sounds easier..

wow.. what a tough car.

rust

Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 3:41 pm
by perrib
I knew there was a reason I left Seekonk, Ma.. Its looking good. My second project was a 1972 Celica I replaced the rockers fenders, floor boards and fenders painted it 1970 Corvette Yellow. I got to AZ and thought it was old car heaven. Keep posting pictures.

Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 6:27 pm
by dbcflash
I drool over the rust free cars listed in Az. This is kinda over-the-top rusty for me, but I've taken it on as a challenge.

Last night I lifted the body off the pan and set it on saw horses. The doors still open and close perfectly, which is what I was worried about. Now I have to do tons of work to the pan. I actually have a 70 pan I am using for doner parts.

I need some new pictures...Eh?