In the past it was just as bad with old,new and solid engine mounts.
Instead of raising the stops he limited downward travel by shimming the rear stabilizer to limit the droop. They still would get pinched every once in a while.
They is vey little room to raise the transaxle so we lowered the frame horns under the boots. A torch and hammer lowered it 1/4 inch.
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After installing the transaxle we had an 1/16 gap on full droop.
Next the rear valance came out we cut on the inside of the 1/4 panel flanges rearward at a slight angle to the gaps in the engine compartment seal carrier.
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The battery is moving to the spare tire well. The removable rear valance is going to ease engine removal/ installation. Note the hood stut to compensate for the weight of the two oil coolers.
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THe battery box side will get some hammer formed patches. The latch also needs attention.
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Paper patterns for the right and left sides and patches. The pistol shaped pattern will get welded to the right and left sides of the cut panels. Gusset will do duty as doubler plate to reinforce the area where the 6mm nuts get welded to the 1/4 panel sides. The valance side will have holes through the doubler plate/gussets to reduce flex. All the bolts will be hidden from view.
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