Teach me about busses...

[InaneCathode]

So right now i have my beetle, it's cool, i like it alright, but i'd MUCH rather have a bus.

Something about having all that room, sitting up over the front axle, bigger car, it just appeals to me. I'm planning on some day soon getting a bus and building an engine for it so i'd like some information or places to get some:

1) what's the best price im looking at for a splitty bus? I like the bay windows ok i suppose, but i just really like the look of the glass in a split window.

2) what kind of engine would be best in a bus? i'm looking to go up pretty steep, 7 percent grade, hills at a reasonable speed, be pretty zippy around town, but still easily cruise at 75mph or so

I think that's a good place to start, so lets start here then

[Piledriver]

You are aware the following discussion will be 99 44/100% opinion, right?

I like Bays, most specifically the IRS and brakes of a mid>late bay vs any splittie, and all the bay transmissions are more bullet resistant as well.
(US spec anyway)

72+ bays come with a free T4 core motor.
(Never expect it to be anything else, even if it runs. You would be amazed what will still run...)

Some early bays (~72???) have oddball front brakes with NLA parts IIRC.

Also IIRC early Bay front suspensions (>72) will bolt into a Splitee.

I much prefer T4s, and wouldn't consider anything else in a Bus, Bay or not.
Yes, they can cost more to do right, but once done right, tend to stay together for ages.

I would probably build an 1800 w/1700 heads, or a mild stroker base on 93mm jugs so they can still be cut to fit in uncut 1700 heads. 94mm might fit but is getting thin in a 100mm register.

I'd still love to find an "unwanted" single cab and stick a late bay suspension and real brakes etc under it.
(The IRS conversion is easy or very difficult depending on who you ask, I have not done one myself on a Bus)

For you entertainment, Google for racetaxi or such. it's a widened split body on a modified Vanagon suspension/frame with a 3.8L Porsche Cup motor out back. Moooooves.

[busman78]

68 & 69 Bay front suspensions are a direct bolt into a split. Bolt pattern was changed in 70.

Front: Splits had king/link pin compared to bays with ball joint.

Rear: Splits were swing axle with reduction boxes, bays CV joints.

Splits may have the look, but the bays have the better handling ride and from 72 on had the engine (T4). Except for the 68 trans the bays came with really tough transmissions (002) that only got tougher when the 091 was introduced.

[InaneCathode]

I'm mostly about function, so if the 72+ has the best suspension and engine core, i'll probably go with that.
What am i looking at price wise for one?

[busman78]

Pop over to http://www.thesamba.com in the classified section, buses 68-79 and feast your eyes on years and styles.

As for how much, depends on you, what you want and how fat the wallet is.

[Indy452]

I'm mostly about function, so if the 72+ has the best suspension and engine core, i'll probably go with that.
What am i looking at price wise for one?

Not too long ago, a guy here (Kansas) sold a split window van on the Samba to some dude in Cali for $1,700.00 This particular split was a panel van with no engine sitting in a field rusting away. This guy did real good IMO.

Neal

[TexasAirCooler]

Another place to find a bus would be on http://craigslist.org/

I've had 68 - 70 bays, I've got a '73 now. I didn't like it at first because of the redesigned front bumper mounting, but after researching the reason for the change and seeing a friends (Amskeptic) bus that was just in a frontal conflict days ago I'm keeping it.

[Chris V]

Stay away from a `72 - no access hatch over the engine

`78/`79 Type IV powered buses have funny heads/heaterboxes too if I'm not mistaken...

I think if I were in the market I'd look at a `76/`77
late style doors/handles
late gas tank opening
FI gas tank
091 transmission (tallest gearing & strongest)

[busman78]

76-77 had the same head and HE's as the 78. 79 had the square port heads with a similar HE of the 72-74 but not interchangeable.

72 is a wonderful year, putting in a engine access lid is not a big deal. Doing without is is also no a big deal if you find a clean 72.

[waterbus]

If it were me I would sort of work backwards. Start with what do you want? If it's a split than don't get something else and hate it, or later sell it for what you want...lost money and time. Next, what am I going to use it for? Haul the family, dog and camping gear, or just putt around town? Do I want more power? Do I want to slam it? Be honest with yourself and then you are ready to look for a bus. Do your research on how to upgrade/update if you desire. Once YOU have a plan then go do it. It will save money and time with a plan ahead of time.

[jweir]

I just found one on dever craigslist for $350, it was a frekin steal (look at the 1970 bus snag post). My buddy todd (pop top pops) got a 70' camper for $50 in the bailey area so there are definitely cheap buses around in CO, you just have to be patient. I wasn't even in the market for my bus, but I couldn't pass it up for $350. I like the type I because I am familiar with it, and so does todd, BUT the IV's do last and have more torque at an increased cost for parts. If we happen to stumble across another VW find, I'll keep you posted. I got mine from a widow, she had 9 vw's from her late husband and I only heard about 5 of them going away including mine. I'll e-mail her right now..

[kombi1976]

If you REALLY want a Split then in the end it's best not to compromise.
They are wonderful things but you need to consider what you need and purchase/modify accordingly.
You also need to be realistic about the value of them.
None of them, with the notable exception of the the Sth African Fleetlines are at least 42 yrs old and standard their technology is, well, a little archaic.
If you want a comfortable 75mph that is manageable with a straight axle conversion and a Type 3 box, or with an IRS conversion and a Super Bug or L-Bug box.
BUT if you expect to climb hills AND use it as a bus, i.e. loaded up at times, then you need to think a bit harder about how to achieve that and, if you want to run aircooled power, that probably equals a large motor with an emphasis on low down torque rather than high revs.
And even if you bought a late model Bay with a 2.0l motor and a 091 transmission it will not absolutely fly up steep inclines.
I've owned 2 Bays with 2.0l motors, one of them that was tweaked and tuned a bit, and neither managed it.
Rather, they proceeded up inclines in their own time.
A Split is lighter but still no Porsche or muscle car.
And with air cooled power it sits firmly behind most modern small cars too in terms of power.
What in your opinion is a reasonable speed up steep hills?
Is this a work or family car?
Are you taking it to more challenging roads regularly?
All this counts.

[jweir]

Being in CO, i've found it is usually the altitude that kills you trying to get up the mountains, so a small turbo like the k03 might just be the ticket for the torque you are after and the boost to overcome the altitude gain (pressure loss). A stock IV turbo setup for insta-boost would move it nicely up the passes. through the mountains, going from my friends 04 tahoe to my 04 ford powerstroke is no comparison, boost makes the mountains alot more fun to travel.