Chenowth Explorer A-Arm Build

[59Bisquik]

I just picked up a Chenowth Explorer 4 seater chassis with A-arms... however, I have the spindles but no arms. I really need a few measurements so I can fab up a set. Any help would be appreciated guys!

[Scabbyfab]

Pics?

[59Bisquik]

Here is a horrible pic of the front end while sitting on the trailer in the dark. Still need to sandblast the frame!

Here are two pics I found on the internet of a finished Explorer. These pics were posted back in 08 on somebodies Myspace and looks like the folks havent been around in a long time. I sent them a message but havent heard anything.



As for the arms, I need some measurements. Eye to eye of the top and bottom arms would be a great start! Secondly, do they need the bend in the trailing arm?

[Hedrock]

I don't know squat about a-arms but I would say that the bend in those arms is a must. I would think you would be very limited in turning if there were no bends. I'm just shooting in the dark here though.

[59Bisquik]

Looking at this picture, I am wondering if I could get away with out it. Or, would it be just as strong to move the arm in question in an inch or two on the other arm and then gusset it for strength. The reason I ask, this would eliminate the added cost of a bender and die from my build.


Second, using a very unscientific guess and factoring that the shock has a 2" body, the top arm is roughly 25" eye to eye. The lower is still a guess.

[Leatherneck]

59Bisquik, get the bender or a friend with one. I don't think moving the wheel out is the key. Unless it is a 550lb sandbuggy you will need some good bracing and sometimes bends are a part of it.

[dansparts]

Call Fiber-Tech in San Diego. They have the jigs from Chenowth (sp) so they should be able to make some arms for you.

[Devastator]

Looking at this picture, I am wondering if I could get away with out it. Or, would it be just as strong to move the arm in question in an inch or two on the other arm and then gusset it for strength. The reason I ask, this would eliminate the added cost of a bender and die from my build.

As mentioned before, you need the bend for steering. Moving the arm in question would put it into the shock, unless you go wider with the front end. Then you are getting into uncharted geometry territory. Ackerman angle, scrub radius, caster angle, and especially, bump steer, must all be taken into consideration.
FWIW, you could do that simple bend with a pipe, (not tubing), bender from an El Cheapo Tool place. Even a big piece of pipe would work. Cut your pieces like a foot long on each end, then bend them, and cut off what you don't need. A little wasteful, but cheaper than buying any type of bender. Or, have them bent for you. If you lived nearer to me, I'd bend them for you.

[59Bisquik]

Thanks for the tips and offer Devastator!

Im gonna get the tubing and see what I can come up with. The quote of 2k for front A-arms from the original jigs is a bit steep for me. I already have original spindles, so its just get the joints and fab up the arms!

[Leatherneck]

We are all watching and seeing what you come up with. Helps others down the line and posting sometimes saves you time and money on possible mistakes. Good luck and keep us posted, this forum was built on guys wanting to do it vice buy it.

[59Bisquik]

Yup, I would rather do it myself and learn something than just buy a turnkey car. I will post up plenty of pics once I get to fabbing!

I have a list of things I have to do to get it close to a roller before I wrap it up for the winter. Come April or May when sand season is over, I will start swapping the drivetrain and other goodies from my current car.
Sand blast the frame
Build A-arms
Install rear 3x6's
Have aluminum hood and sides made at the tin shop
Install roof and floor
Wrap it up for the winter and enjoy the rest of sand season!

[Devastator]

Second, using a very unscientific guess and factoring that the shock has a 2" body, the top arm is roughly 25" eye to eye. The lower is still a guess.

Measure the KPI, (king pin angle), that your spindles have. Do this by setting the spindle level then checking the angle of the A-arm bolt holes, relative to the spindle. Now check the angle of the upper and lower A-arm mounts on the frame. If they are the same angle, (commonly done to prevent bump steer and wild camber angles), then the upper and lower A-arms should be the same length. These would be even A-arms.
Uneven A-arms are fairly common also, unfortunately for you. If this is the case, you'll have to fab the upper arm, then make an adjustable, temporary, lower A-arm that you can cycle through the suspension travel until the spindle stays horizontal through the travel. Sounds difficult, but it really isn't once you get your head around it. Good news is that the other arm will be a breeze.

[59Bisquik]

I measured the spindles and frame tonight and got some rough measurements.
The spindles have a 3/4" hole offset.
The top a-arm mounting holes are 11" apart.
The bottom a-arm mounting holes are 9.5" apart.

So in theory, if the top arm is 25" eye to eye, the bottom arm should be 26.5" eye to eye. That should be a good rough starting spot. With hiems on both ends, I should have enough adjustment to get it dialed in!

Devastator...
What sized tubing and hiems did you use? I normally have Mr. Overkill show up on my projects. On my Bronco, I used 1 1/2" .250 DOM and 7/8" hiems for my steering. But on a buggy, that is probably way too big. What would you suggest?

[Devastator]

I'm using 1-1/4" DOM tubing, (although I bought it as seamless tubing as it is cheaper). I originally bought it for the rear trailing arms.
I'm using different size and style rod ends for the A-arms. At the frame, I'm using rod ends with a 1/2" hole and a 1/2" thread. At the spindles, they have a 3/4" hole and a 3/4" thread, with misalignment spacers that accomodate a 1/2" bolt. I read one time that the lower A-arm bears 70% of the total load of the combined load of the arms, FWIW.

[59Bisquik]

What wall thickness did you use?

I was looking at 1 1/4" .120 wall and 3/4" hiems and weld in bungs but have also thought of 1" .188 wall and tap them for 3/4" hiems