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I worked as a CNC programmer and operator for a few years and still have access to the machines. Thankfully I've been away from doing mindless production work long enough that I have the desire to actually do something for myself again.

I guess I want to start with opening up a set of heads for 90.5's and see where that gets me. Ideally in the long run I'd like to try some porting but I'm limited to 3-axis vertical mills so I don't think I can get too wicked.

Does anybody care to share their jigs and fixturing for doing head work? I know most who do this stuff use manual mills, but a good deal of the setup should be similar. I'm fairly confident I can come up with something on my own, but why reinvent the wheel? Is there some type of handy chart with commonly used information in these processes anywhere?

Real shops just use a single flycutter bit to open the cylender

When I opened up my heads on a CNC mill, I just clamped them to the table on the valve cover surface, and indicated each bore in to run the program. If you're talking about porting the intake ports, however, I can't help you as you;d have to have a 3d model or NURB to go by and use a reduced shank, long reach, ball endmill, in 3 axis interpolation mode. While I have the software to program such a thing, and the machines to run it, I have no idea what the finish shape should be.

to clamp it down, they use a HEAVY cast piece that clamps the valve cover surface to the table, its a big Y kinda deal that goes into the space from under the PR tube holes. the table has cutouts for the rocker sutds, you'd probably have to reove them.

fusername wrote: the table has cutouts for the rocker studs, you'd probably have to remove them.

You can put the rocker studs in the T-slots on the table or put the heads up on 1-2-3 blocks. Circular interpolation on a CNC mill generates a lot less cutting pressure than the, flycutter shaped, tool normally used.

I have angle plates that allow quick clamping at the same angle as the valve seats/guides. I can post some pics of those.

I'd go straight to 101.1mm...That way thickwall 92's and 94's will work without modification...to run anything smaller a shim just needs to be fitted, or 'powersleeving'.

Steve Arndt wrote:I have angle plates that allow quick clamping at the same angle as the valve seats/guides. I can post some pics of those.

I'd like to see those....

Chris V wrote:http://bugpatch.com/VWToolsCatalog/VWTo ... fault.aspx

i love this kind of stuff, for sale ad, showing how to make your own

Hello.
Plate over the the mill design
The tool should be able to press in for spring removal with chuck and moded socked jug.

jbrandt01, have you made a jig yet? Care to share your design? Thanks.

i've been toying with a berg boring tool, yes i know!

i feel they work better for cases then for heads as with the case you can take small cuts and build up, but to flycut the head you have to take a very wide cut when at the base if that makes sense?

an upside down head fits its rocker studs in the T slots fine i found... yet to try the cases on my floor mounted pillar drill, its a nice unit, weight nearly 200kg. nice and solid!

what tyre of cutter are people using and what speed?