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Knowing myself I wont be happy with the 100 hp stock 2.0 for long so I might aswell ask those
with more knowledge about these engines how to rectify that. Internet dreaming is fun tho but
in the harsher reality I'll also have a budget of about $5k + of course the stock 2.0 engine.

How would you spend the money to get a fun engine for track and autocross and what kind of
torque / hp would you expect to end up with at the rear wheels?

Actually, a simple upgrade to 96mm flattops (more for compression than displacement) and a reasonable/CR compatible (non-stock) cam makes FAR more of a difference than you would think, as the stock cam... was great for emissions, supposedly.

The 2L 914 heads flow ~180 CFM ~.500", in good condition can make very decent power w/o mods, but still expect to drop >1K into them to have them "done" properly by Headflow Masters or EMW et al.

If you have a set of Webers or love the same ITB song, a 494@104 and ~9:1 or so is a reasonable starting point, depending on altitude.

A plenum based setup will prefer a milder cam or much wider lobe centers, generally, to keep the overlap top a minimum.
With an air cleaner hanging off the TB directly the tuning is MUCH different than stock.

If you intend to keep DJet, a Web73 is about it, and it will still need some work to fine tune.
I'd strongly suggest a stand alone EMS of some sort, even with the std manifold setup.(modern injectors work better.)

The factory manifolds are very well designed, but you may want to consider a Bus or modified Vanagon WBX plenum if you do that route.

If you want to do competitive AX, the class you want to run in will dictate what mods get done to a great extent.
IIRC there is some "handicapping" done, if you have installed for example a dry sump setup or Webers/ITBs it might cost you time or bump you up a class, depend greatly on where you run.

We can easily spend your $5K target if you want, but AX is 99% driver, as long as you don't break.

Expect a full EMS setup to run 1-2K, depending on your time investment.
The inner chassis stiffeners are highly suggested, and cost ~$400 U weld in.
A dry sump setup should be at least considered, as a 914 can easily make enough Gs to need it.
the cheap CB pump works OK with some mods, and clears the fan/housing with only minor effort.

You NEED to change out the vinyl fuel lines in the tunnel, it's 40 years old and is a fire hazard.
I used brake line. Occasionally folks make up and have group buys on SS lines..
Replace the 40 year old plastic ones in ANY case.

In my head I'm thinking ITB's and a modern standalone system. (I've never even touched a carb, guess I'm too young...) and I have acess to local expertise in tuning these systems. Altitudewise I'm basically at sealevel +50-200 meters for all my driving.

Have you ever done AX?

Most clubs have a "run what u brung" class to get you hooked...
I wouldn't make any plans to spend seriosu $$ until you have clear goals.

Add a quart of oil over normal.
Stick a pair of woven pot scrubbers in the breather chimney as air/oil separators.
A good PCV system will not include the factory PCV valve, there are MUCH better setups.

If new to ACVWs, please Google for "ZDDP and flat tappet lifters", many LONG articles on the issue, most modern oils will sooner or later kill your engine. (on a new cam, frequently before you get it fully warmed up the first run)

There are commonly available oils that ARE fine, but grabbing a random on-sale deal may not end well.

I run Rotella-T6 synthetic 5W-40 and Mobil1 filters.
Brad Penn 1 would be f1rst choice if you have a local retailer.
Valvoline VR-1 is also a reasonable choice, and available in a variety of grades.
Mobil1 "Turbo-Diesel Truck" (AKA Delvac-1) is also great oil.
---NOT "truck and SUV"--- totally different stuff with a ~similar sounding name.

Notice Castrol GTX is not mentioned anywhere above.
It was reformulated years ago and is not suitable for flat tappet equipped engines per Castrol.

Megasquirt has a lot of support on this board.(including its own forum)
I ran MS2-extra for the last ~2 years and just upgraded to MS3/MS3X, and soon adding a IOX.
I run the trigger wheels the Factory gave us
6/1 sequential off a modified distributor, and the 6 holes in the back of the flywheel
(dust escape routes, line up with the pressure plate bolts, next time I'll drill 5 more holes and go 12-1, there's a hole in the case for the sensor already)

If you will be having a local shop install/tune, and not be hands on DIY, you should consult with your installer/tuner before deciding on anything.

Yes I've done autocross, I won my class (944S2, 944T, 964 & 993) with my 964C2 this year.
My plans are to build a fun street/autocross/light track use car. Good suspension bits but sticking to rubber bushings etc to still
make it endurable for driving to work some days and going to get icecream with my son. I took a partial loan to buy the C2 two years ago
so selling the 964 and building a fun 914 would let me have a fun car without monthly payments to the bank.

Oilwise I'm running Motul 300V 15W-50 in my 964 and it seems happy with that so I'd probably stick with that.

OK, that sets a good baseline for expectations.

A 914 weighs in @~2100 lbs with a full tank of gas and the spare, there isn't really much to strip, esp if DD-capable duty is expected. A 2056 as described should make for at LEAST 125 HP with a very fat power band, and that can move a 2100 lb car briskly. With a well designed exhaust (A1 under trans etc) and proper tuning, 150 is not impossible to reach.

(the exhaust will limit you, if heat is important to you, ~<150 HP in any case with the factory HX, unless you boost it)

A modified stock intake setup may be able to provide more tq where you want it esp for AX.

With a good set of sticky tires and a good shoe at the wheel, a ~stock dual bar equipped 914 is quite capable of eventually breaking itself in half if there is any chassis rust.
(thus the suggestion of the inner long stiffeners, they work)

Have you driven one yet?

IMHO, and as much as I hate to say it, if you intend to track the car regularly and need much more HP than the relatively mild upgrades i suggested, I strongly suggest an engine with more main bearings, Subaru 2.5 (STi) or EZ 3.0/6 perhaps.

When you get into building much bigger//higher HP T4s @reasonable reliability levels (top quality parts$$$), the costs balloon, and a Suby swap or such become highly cost effective.

This is not to say you can't, but you need to crunch the numbers and consider price/performance.

If you haven't yet purchased a 914, you might even consider looking for a cheap Boxster with a dead motor---
Much better bones, and the suby swap is relatively trivial.

(I may get fired for that, but that's how I see it)

No I havn't driven one yet....they're quite rare here but I'm in contact with an owner 250 miles away and hopefully we can work out a day where I can get to test his car.

An engine swap isn't really on my agenda since that would most likely prevent me from participating in Porsche Club Sweden's autocross cup and other events (not positive about this but I dont think they like engine swaps or some people would show up in 944's with 400 hp Saab and Volvo engines) If I need more than 150 hp I'd probably look at a lightly boosted application but I know how that spirals out of control quite quickly. (0.5 bar will be plenty.....hey it runs great 0.8 bar too, 1 bar, omg i need new cw joints etc etc.....)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mp4p3V3jKoA

I have a type 4 in my '65 notchback (the car weighs about 1800 in it's current gutted state). It's just a mild 2L bus motor with stock valve size 1.7L 914 heads, Jake's version of the 494, about 8.5:1 CR, crappy t-bird style header, and my own homebrewed EFI/ign based around megasquirt and Suzuki GSXR 40mm ITB's and coil on plugs. You have a lot better exhaust options and better flowing heads, plus with your budget you should have no problem at all going my route and get some better numbers too.

Did you eventually manage to hit all the cells on that "hill"?
Around Houston, that's a big hill.

Short of a dyno, a hill is your best friend for tuning.(Logs or using VEAL)

Nice notchback!

Here's a few pic's and videos of my previous and current toy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TDnjk9hcIw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgmyltRn ... &lr=1&ob=5