Problems with my beetle

[ScottusMaximus]

Hi there,
my first post so I do not know if I am doing this right...
I have a 1973 super beetle and I am having serious issues getting the engine to work
the engine is getting no spark but the rotator arm still spins
I have replaced the coil, the battery, the spark plugs, rotator arm and the distributor cap
it would be great if you guys could give me some suggestions about things that could be going wrong and ways to fix them
thanks

[helowrench]

firstly,
Welcome to the site.

now, to the point on your troubles.
Do you have a multimeter?
we need to make sure you have power to the coil, when the key is in the "on" position.

On your coil, there will be a set of spade connections on each side. One side has a green wire going down to distributor (points wire).
Unplug the points wire when you check this, and see that you have voltage from the other set of spades, (+) to any convenient ground. you can use the engine case.

If you have voltage, we will look at the distributor itself, if we do not have voltage we have to go elsewhere.

Rob

[Piledriver]

One easily forgotten (well, two, actually) are the points and condensor, which should always be replaced together.

Also---rust never sleeps---Even tungsten oxidizes.
Sometimes after an "extended rest" the points contacts simply oxidize--- and metal oxides are generally speaking great insulators.
Sometimes simply cleaning/buffing the points contact surfaces, or even simply rubbing them together when closed is enough to get it going again. Of course the plastic cam follower on the points could be worn and the points are no longer opening properly, good time to check that. New points are just as likely to need cleaning, due to possibly sitting on a shelf for years.

I would suggest a matchbook cover for a burnishing tool, but no one uses matches anymore: some thin paperboard (cereal box?), preferably unfinished placed between closed contacts and pulled through a few times gets them reasonably clean of the thin oxide layer.
(power off)

A good volt/ohm/ammeter will pay for itself quickly and can last a lifetime.
Even the little pocket ones are better than nothing.
A good test lamp can be just as useful, esp in this case, and is a good, inexpensive place to start building a tool collection.

[Marc]

"Kettering troubleshooting 101":
Disconnect the Term 1 (-) wire from the coil, leaving only the power from the ignition switch hooked up to Term 15 (+).
Remove the high-tension lead from the center of the distributor cap and hold the end of it <½" from anything it'll reach that's grounded (the coil bracket, base of the carb, etc.)
Turn on the ignition, and using a jumper wire between Term 1 and ground, see if you don't get a decent spark each time you disconnect it (if not you may not have power to the coil, or the coil is defective).
Next hook the Term 1 wire back up, rotate the engine until the points are closed and see if you can get a good spark each time you open the points by diddling them with a small screwdriver; also try rotating the engine so that the points are open and then bridge across them with your screwdriver tip. If the screwdriver makes better points than the points do, they need attention. If you get a good spark under these tests but not when the engine's cranking, and the voltage to the coil isn't being dragged down excessively while cranking, then the condenser is suspect.

If you don't have power to the coil, it's usually caused by a damaged wire between the ignition switch and the coil. There's no fuse protection for that wire, so if it gets misconnected at the coil it may short to ground through the points when they're closed and burn up. Same scenario can damage the ignition switch itself, and (especially on the "modular" switches found on `72 and newer cars) it's not uncommon for the plastic substrate inside the switch which supports the contacts to either melt or crack so that the contacts no longer touch. The difference is that if the wire's the problem the warning lights will still come on; if it's the switch they won't. The good news there is that the electrical portion of the modular ignition switch is relatively easy to change compared to the `68-`70 & `71 style.

[Piledriver]

Someone may also have put a fuse on the circuit. (recommended)

Its usually easy to locate the coil power wire @ the fusebox... Its the crispy black one.

[Marc]

...Its usually easy to locate the coil power wire @ the fusebox... Its the crispy black one.