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Hi

Got a T4 with standard 228mm flywheel, do I need to change anything to fit my beetle?

You would need to clearance the bell housing quite a bit to use that flywheel, potentially weakening it to the point of failure. You're far better of with a 200 or, at most, a 215.

H2OSB

This is an old picture bus into a glass buggy pan when I was building a body lift but the bust trans positioning would be the same with a bug. The bus trans sits something like 3" highter than a bug trans does so a new mounting kit is needed. As an option there is a 10° mount that allows the nose of the trans to sit in the tunnel and the shifter and shift rod to remain on and in the tunnel other wise it is on top of the tunnel.

The bus is wider so the half axle are a different length and the CV joins are bigger on both ends so on the outboard half shaft you will have to go with a bus unit.

Is it worth it... in most cases yes!

Lee

You can also relieve the cv joints inner spline to t1 width, works just fine,
can be done with a simple die grinder setup in a few minutes/.

There is absolutely no need to run the bus trans/shifter etc over the tunnel.
You can buy off the shelf kits or diy if you can weld.

Some grinding of the frame horns pinch weld is required: it is best to fully weld the frame horns in any case for strength..

I did it myself, have pics somewhere still, used to be on tunacan.net/type4/ may still be in the wayback machine.

I would have second thoughts about using a heavily clearanced t1 trans seriously off road if it was the only engine support.
on road no issues: I used a hole saw with the drill bit removed in a battery powered hand drill. I was very careful to only remove what was absolutely required.

A late bus or 914 trans tan take a 228mm clutch with zero grinding, drops in.
The flywheel fits with no issues---same ring gear and depth as a 200mm...
The 228 lasts ~forever compared to a 200mm or even a 210/215.

I put >>200K on the one in my 914, you could still clearly readf the SACHs logo and part# paint on the friction surface when I pulled it at ~150k miles or so.
I still have it ready to go back in, it still looks near new.

The huge pressure plate has the bits that hit.

I have seen more modern pressure plates that are far more compact that might actually clear everything.
I put one on my tdi a couple years ago (stage 3 ceramic 228mm 6 puck) I was temped to try but I didnt have a chance.

Kj70 what are you going to be using this for?

The old pix I posted is a 6-rib aka and 091. As I understand it it is the stronger of the bus trans. much stronger than the standard IRS trans but then if you have a swing setup there are other good and bad combinations. The starter will be different as I remember.

One of the things that stopped me about the 6° nose down mount is the carbs will probably not sit level to the engine. Not sure if that is good or bad.

If you are playing off-road then I did a fairly detailed post as to the changing of the stock sedan conversion from their drive flanges to the larger dia. bus drive flanges for more axle angle using the bus units but then there is another set of stock VW units that will give more angle but I forget their number right now (and the 930 CV joints. As for the stub shaft you either have to get a pair of bus units or aftermarket units.
.

This is a stock sedan trans with the bus CVs installed in a buggy.
This shows the nose cone and the roughly 3" higher it sits than a stock sedan trans. I have a body lift and that is where the hole and tube for the nose cone fits through.

Hope this helps some.

Lee