Thinking of going large = CC

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Hi type 4 er's .
I'm thinking of going bigger on my 1911.
I've done the turbo thing, it is good,
But on my VW bucket list is to build a relatively big type 4 using 96mm jugs ,wanna keep the cylinder wall nice and thick for the turbo.

I cant seem to locate EMW's email address .

I'm gunna contact them and get them to get a list together of parts
consisting of the largest MM crank I can use with best journal size rod combo.
kit would consist of
b +p's
cam
crank
conrods
I did notice the price of CSP longer pushrod tubes. £31 each. ouch.

[Arnoud]

Hi Garrick!

EuropeanMotorWorks(EMW) also make longer pushrod tubes-I have them and along with the QSC 103mm Nicasils and the 82mm crank-they have been residing on a shelf in my garage for at least 15 Years ...

[wreck]

a little hind sight from building a 2600 for the first time . If you stick to a crank with chev or type 1 rod journals you can get rods for a better price, get rods with 5/16 bolts .Don't go larger than 78mm on stroke because you will then get issues with the rods hitting cam lobes and you will need a reduced back circle cam that doesn't wear as well . These are all recommendations from Jake Raby when he was contributing to forums , I'd have saved a bit of money if I'd seen that advice before I ordered parts .

When I got parts from EMW I just phoned them (I'm in Australia) . Jorge is good to deal with and a phone call is better than an email for discussing engine parts . They have a lot of stuff that is not on the web page .

If you want to see the price gouging for VW versus Porsche , have a look at Pauters web page . look up rods for a VW type 4 , then look up rods for a Porsche 914 . I don't know if the sales guys would actually bill someone for the Porsche price or advise them the VW rod is the same and cheaper .

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Ok Thank's Wreck.
Thing is I would probably go with a 78 mm crank ,but other's have gone bigger, If larger than 78mm is a massive issue why do the manufacturers Still make them.
Can you tell me what is the ware problem with the reduced base circle cams.
Think I read that the Cunningham rods have the best clearance.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

So with these big cranks, I'd need long rods to reduce the rod angle, the longer the better for me
I have emailed AHENDORP BAS for a price on a crank/rod/piston etc kit.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Well after reading through some article's on the greatest hits page it looks like Wreck is right on this, more than 78 is too much hassle. Shame really as 78 isn't that big. Its even small on a type 1
Going from the strongest 66mm crank to 78mm sticking with 96mm pistons probably isn't worth the work.
6mm pull/6mm push of the piston wont be too great performance wise. Unless I'm wrong.
Cam could be increased a bit.

[Arnoud]

So with these big cranks, I'd need long rods to reduce the rod angle, the longer the better is it.
I have emailed AHENDORP BAS for a price on a crank/rod/piston etc kit.

I personally would look further then BAS-Ahnendorp-waaayyyy too expensive.Try Rainer Orminski: https://www.typ4shop.de/
He is the distributor for AA parts in Germany and is by far the cheapest and holds the biggest stock.He sell type 4 parts to all the main type 4 builders in Germany.
He also makes his own cilinderheads.

Cheers,Arnoud

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Thanks Arnoud I'll look them up.
Will the site convert to English
3.0ltr type 4 = 10,000 euros

[wreck]

you'd be surprised the torque difference 12mm of stroke makes to an engine . It all depends what you plan for the engine , NA or boosted ? what sort of RPM limit ? what sort of budget ? If you don't need Pauter or Cunningham rods , a set of AA I beams in Chev size are $140 USD or $250 for H beams . where as if you go 2 litre type 4 rod journal you are looking at $355 for rods . Thats $100 to $200 you can put into a good exhaust or heads .
The 2liter (50mm) journal gives more room for a bigger stroke but is not as strong . (Not so much of an issue if you stay NA)
my theory with the cam wear on the smaller base circle is because the percentage between the cam base circle and lobe increases as the base circle gets smaller , which increases load on the cam lifter .

[Arnoud]

Thanks Arnoud I'll look them up.
Will the site convert to English
3.0ltr type 4 = 10,000 euros

You might mail him and ask if he does,his German is pretty good All I know is that he is very helpfull and approachable.
I've been to his place once:never seen so many VW-aircooled crankcases stored in one place.

Cheers

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Yeah, I'll do that arnoud.
B.A.S didn't reply to my email. Says it all really bout them

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

I have the chance of an unused 96 x78 type 4 motor , I'm trying to put a fair price bid in for it.
The advert says
96 x78
web cam .unknown spec
pauter rockers
type 1 followers
big valve heads
cromo fly
dry sump pump, don't really need that
remmelle front pully
Thing is with engines its the buyers risk all the time.
Has it got the above parts, who no's
Is the machine work good
Is the case cracked.
bad port job
The list could go on and on
So how would you value it.
To me it would have to be stripped and inspected 1st before you give ya hard earned cash away.

I could build my own ,but if there is one that's all done it saves loads of time.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Anyone got EMW email address.
I could ring them but the time difference doesn't work for me.

[Arnoud]

http://www.europeanmotorworks.com/contact.html

and I believe it was jorge@europeanmotorworks.com

[Clatter]

I have the chance of an unused 96 x78 type 4 motor , I'm trying to put a fair price bid in for it.
The advert says
96 x78
web cam .unknown spec
pauter rockers
type 1 followers
big valve heads
cromo fly
dry sump pump, don't really need that
remmelle front pully
Thing is with engines its the buyers risk all the time.
Has it got the above parts, who no's
Is the machine work good
Is the case cracked.
bad port job
The list could go on and on
So how would you value it.
To me it would have to be stripped and inspected 1st before you give ya hard earned cash away.

I could build my own ,but if there is one that's all done it saves loads of time.

Tough call those..
If you can inspect in-person then it gets easier.

Has to be a deal, otherwise pass.
Anyone with half a brain knows to at least pull a head.
Unless it has a receipt from a certain shop..

I wouldn't mind a dry sump setup at all m'self..