endplay shims problem: Solved

[fredc125]

I just got this engine (type 4 2413) from the builder and it has been fully rebuilt, align bored,crank turned, flywheel turned,new bearings etc. Now when I mount the flywheel and tighten the bolts, it locks up the crank. If I loosen the bolts it will spin. I've found that by removing two of the three endplay shims I can tighten the flywheel bolts and the crank will spin. Problem is, I am clueless about this kind of stuff and don't know what to do next. Is it ok to run? Should I take it back to the builder? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thankyou....UPDATE:SOLVED. So as it turns out... the fan was installed incorrectly. Before placing the fan on the engine there must be a spacer installed on the end of the crank behind the fan. This spacer was left out causing the fan to be pulled into the fan housing when the flywheel was tightened which was the reason for the binding. I added the spacer and went back to 3 shims and all is well. Thanks all.

[V8Nate]

Take it back to the builder he should have set the endplay

[Deefer66]

Sounds like too much shim..

Standard procedure would be to fit two shims, which should still let it spin and give you an end play to measure.

Get a third shim to take end play down to 3 to 5 thou (i think) in your units..

.. or go back and get your builder to set endplay... just don't run it if it won't turn..



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[fredc125]

It turns with one shim. Runs fine. I just don't want to keep running it if there is a problem using only one shim. Since the flywheel hardmounts directly to the crank with the shims in between, I don't understand why that would cause the crank to lock up. Am I pulling the shims or crank up against the case when I tighten the flywheel bolts causing binding?

[Bruce.m]

The shins set the clearance to the thrust face of the #1 bearing. With two much shim, the flywheel is pressing tight against the bearing. The correct clearance allows a film of oil for the shim which is necessary because the helical gear for the cam and the pressure from the clutch release both push/pull the flywheel against that thrust surface.

Three shims are required (they are available in numerous sizes to mix’n’match the correct overall thickness). The middle shim enables a slipping oil lubed bearing, between the flywheel and the bearing/case. Do not run with 1 shim as it will cause rapid wear!

[Bruce.m]

You need to fit one shim and measure the end play with a dial indicator or a special tool plus feeler gauges. Then measure your three shims individually with a micrometer (ideally, caliper is option B). Add the end play measurement to the thickness of the single shim you fitted. That is the total clearance.
Next you need a set of shims that add up to that number less the required end play spec. You should be able to use 1 or 2 of your existing shims and buy 1 or 2 more to hit the correct thickness.

Or get the engine builder to do it. Especially if you don’t have the measuring tools.