Early type 4 motor?

[Timas]

Buckle up friends.
I have a long winded write up to share.

So the whole reason I joined STF is because I have found myself in a precarious position.
When I bought my "new" long block it came from GEX. Which I now know was a horrible decision on my part.
Here is where I am really confused though.
I am pretty sure I was given a early type 2 block.
I say this because my Pistons are 90.5mm whereas I think I am supposed to have 94mm?
Long story short, I need to rebuild my motor... again.
I have read so many different threads about crank vs cam vs lift n deck height...blah,blah,blah; basically at this point I do not even know whether I have a type 1 or type 4 base.

I do know that I need more torque and more hp
I have multiple long hill climbs in my area.

I am going to now be a contradicting fool. I am on a tight budget.
Without knowing a lot about building engines or if I can even use these components.
I was thinking about trying to use as many preexisting parts I can, but also grab a few quick wins if possible.

Here is what I am thinking based off:
(option 1) spend cash
(option 2) just getting my bus back to at least running again, with a small upgrade.

Option 1:
Keep my 78mm crank at least I think that is what I have)
Engle 110 cam or something that keeps exhaust open a little longer
Stock rockers
Panchito heads (bored to 94 mm)
Sodium filled exhaust valves (if I can find them in 35mm)
Keep L jet
AA 94mm biral Pistons and cylinders
Additional external 1.5 qrt oil cooler.

Option 2
Stock crank
92 mm thick walled pistons and barrels (biral)
AMC stock heads (port matched)
Web cam
stock rockers

I think compression needs to be around 8:1 ??
( We want this ratio to stay relatively low right?)

Let the games begin

Thank you to all.

[AdminSteve]

You should post a picture of your current engine so we can verify you have a Type 4. Some of your parts list is for a Type 1 combination and they are not compatible.

AdminSteve

[Timas]

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[Bruce.m]

Yes, that is a type4.

The piston size is odd. Stock sizes were 90 & 92 with a 66mm crank making approx 1.7 & 1.8 litre. The 94mm piston came with a 71mm stroke crank to make approx 2.0l

It’s possible the engine is fitted with oversized 1.7l pistons at +0.5mm bore, with bored out cylinders. That would suggest the crank is 66mm stroke.

I note some of the modifications you mentioned, such as the heads, are type1 parts and would not fit a type4 engine.

[The method]

Vw X factory rebuilt.. So may have started life as any thing..

[Timas]

Appreciate the replies.
So after I get the case separated I will measure to verify crank size.
Unfortunately my heads are toast.
Valves guide was punched in from the opposite end and broke a section off the boss and cracked another section.

Now we are getting somewhere.

Dang this whole time I thought I had a 2.0.
Should have kept my OG block

This my first engine complete engine rebuild so I am nervous about fudging up and having to walk away from my bus.

[Timas]

Does anyone know based off the cylinder head number (seen in the picture above) what type of heads I have?
Also, are all type 4 heads fair game or do I need to stay with whatever was on the motor prior?

[Bruce.m]

The heads are the Van version, so have smaller valves. They are bored for 92mm & 94mm pistons (1.8 & 2.0). They also have the oval exhaust port, not the rectangle shaped port from later vans.

Stock heads are broadly:
1.7 car & van heads (oval port, 39/33 valves, 90mm piston)
1.8 car heads (oval port, 41/34 valves, 92mm piston - will fit 94mm too)
2.0 car heads (oval port 42/36 valves, 94mm piston)

2.0 van heads (oval port, 37.5/33 valves, 94mm)
2.0 “vanagon” head (rectangular port, 37.5/33, 94mm)

I’m skipping some minor differences to keep it simple

[Timas]

Thanks Bruce M.

So the heads I was leaning towards are linked below. I haven't gone too deep down the cylinder head rabbit hole

I haven't heard too much about these particular heads, but I also know the AMC heads are pretty good as well.

https://www.mofoco.com/category/Performance_Heads/c52

I know there is a compression formula that will come into play at some point.

I have good 2 mile hill climbs in my area what type of compression are we aiming for?

What is my best chance of achieving that without having to donate a kidney to get there?

If I put a 2.0 71 mm counter balanced crank
Then would I need the heads fly cut? If so, how much?

Bearing size(s) as well please.

I wasn't joking when I initially said I would have to sell my bus if I fail.

I love having my bus, but I can't be a boat owner.

[Bruce.m]

Those are all type1 heads. If you look at the intake the two ports are close together. On a type 4 the intake ports are much further apart. The exhaust posts on type 4 exit opposite of the intake. On type1 heads the exhaust exit at each end of the head.

[Timas]

Many thanks...again.

[Piledriver]

I must suggest you visit the type4um here and read the stickies, at least. Will save a lot of time, and possibly money.

Borken valve guides can be replaced easily, almost always.

If it was still a 1700 it would probably still be running... they were relatively bulletproof as originally configured.
(except for a bad batch of exhaust valves early on)

[Timas]

Suggestion noted and appreciated Piledriver

[Timas]

Greetings.
I moved my thread over to the type4um.