Full flow, external thermostat & cooler, rear oil piston delete?

[Alexander_Monday]

Full flow with Oberg filter, cooler, and thermostatic valve that bypasses the cooler until warm, and oem cooler bypass.
Would it benefit to delete the rear oil piston (cooler bypass piston) and spring so oil is always going both up and through the oem bypass and down to the main galley?
Regardless of if it would help or not, anyone see any downside?
I thought about doing the JayCee full flow adapter tube that taps into the main galley, but removing the piston seems to me like it would be similar and a lot less work.

[Piledriver]

Bottom of the cooler bypass bore has a largeish oil return either to sump or oil pickup tube channel, depending on year. Keep it for the pressure relief, get the Berg relief pump cover, or buy the JAYCEE thing with the built-in adjustable relief.
To bypass the factory bore you need to plug that return to sump/pickup hole or install a spacer to keep the piston in the bore at the bypass height. A standard cheap T1 external il cooler adapter can be drilled out to be a simple loop in seconds and is a good place to attach an oil temp sender or turbo feed/accusump or whatever. (I'd keep the stock cooler personally on a driver with stock cooling system, just adding t-static block and external FF filter and cooler)

The stock relief setup can have the return-to-sump passage plugged and an outlet added to return to dry sump tank if you go there, fixes the scavenge capacity issue if using a CB dry pump, esp on a T4, requires pump mods so its just 2 flow-through stages, have pictures, not hard.

Obergs are great chunk screens to allow easy inspection but very poor filters, no surface area, if running dry sump put on scavenge side and use full flow thermostatic on pressure side like usual. I have two of them in my stash.

[Alexander_Monday]

Bottom of the cooler bypass bore has a largeish oil return either to sump or oil pickup tube channel, depending on year. Keep it for the pressure relief, get the Berg relief pump cover, or buy the JAYCEE thing with the built-in adjustable relief.
To bypass the factory bore you need to plug that return to sump/pickup hole or install a spacer to keep the piston in the bore at the bypass height. A standard cheap T1 external il cooler adapter can be drilled out to be a simple loop in seconds and is a good place to attach an oil temp sender or turbo feed/accusump or whatever. (I'd keep the stock cooler personally on a driver with stock cooling system, just adding t-static block and external FF filter and cooler)

The stock relief setup can have the return-to-sump passage plugged and an outlet added to return to dry sump tank if you go there, fixes the scavenge capacity issue if using a CB dry pump, esp on a T4, requires pump mods so its just 2 flow-through stages, have pictures, not hard.

Obergs are great chunk screens to allow easy inspection but very poor filters, no surface area, if running dry sump put on scavenge side and use full flow thermostatic on pressure side like usual. I have two of them in my stash.

Good call, I hadn't thought about a weep hole below the piston, but it would have to have one.
When I get the case I will see what it takes to hold the piston up but not block the flow.
I do run the Berg relief pump cover.
With my dual fan set up to let the supercharger sit in the middle above the engine I don't think I can have any fittings on the cooler plate.
I have an oil cooler plate I made with tapped fittings when it was NA and plumbed them to the external cooler.

[Piledriver]

If you have the berg cover, all you need is an old pushrod cut down to put the piston below the main gallery passage.
Its about 8mm in dia,(edit---on a T4) significant oil is bypassed at cruise RPM, most above 5k.

I keep forgetting its a T1, have just about the same conversation going with Eddie in another thread in type4um.
...or maybe just with you, getting old sucks, not recommended, 1 star.