Calling all 78 bus(T4) owners...

derfregal · Post by **derfregal** » Sun Jun 10, 2001 9:47 pm

Just wondering who else has one and would be willing to offerup any pros or cons to these busses with the type 4 engine in it. I am looking for as much info on conversion to carbs or any other helpful tips for it. I just had it GIVEN to me and am limited on experience with T4's.
thanx
derfregal

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Wed Aug 29, 2001 4:07 pm

Derfregal, If you`re into VW`s stay with the type 4 engine. It`s the wave of the future. Bigger, stronger, better.
There was a time in the early 70`s I remember when everyone was going from 36hp, 40hp, and 1500 to the new dual port engines, for all the same reasons. Bob

tomt · Post by **tomt** » Thu Aug 30, 2001 6:36 am

I have a 73 bus with a 79 2-liter engine. Due to safety issues, I pulled the FI and installed DRLAs. I think it actually ran a bit better with the FI but I haven't got the Dells optimized yet. If your FI is functioning properly I'd recommend leaving it alone.
T4's aren't that much different in theory than T1's. The layout is different, but not hard to get used to. Of course if you are planning to tear it down and rebuild it almost everything will be different...

Derek May · Post by **Derek May** » Fri Oct 12, 2001 11:37 pm

I have a 75 Westy with Fuel Injection, which has mostly worked well. FI system seems a little complicated, but if the bits are working, it works good.
THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL, A MUST. First thing to do, and this is for all bus owners -- replace all fuel lines from the tank to the engine, and all vacuum lines, and all other hoses. Broken fuel line = burned van. Ensure the fuel filter is under the Van, near the tranny -- line is pressurized, you don't want it to pop off filter and spray fuel on hot engine, better to spray it on the road. Inconvenience of changing filter is worth it.

FI relies upon information from various vaccum hoses -- there is a fuel pressure regulator, and of course the distributor. Also, the proper mix depends upon air only going into the engine from the right place, so missing or leaky airhoses affect performance.

So, ensure all the hoses are there. Ensure they are all new unless you know for sure they are less than a few years old. Too many Vans running around with 30 year old hoses.

Finally, proper current also important to FI, so check your alternator if its not reasonably new, if you have perfomance problems after replacing hoses. Bad hoses are responsible for more problems than you'd imagine.

Also, consider the O2 sensor in the head, it can get bad and is easily and cheaply replaced.

Check out: http://www.type2.com

and: http://www.busdepot.com

Also check out: http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/

for engines to drool over. Jake's engine's aren't cheap, but get rave reviews.

No need to replace FI system, unless its not working and a pair of dual dellorto's is a cheaper solution after trying the cheap solutions to get it going, or if you are going to a non-stock engine such as jakes, and can't get enough air/fuel into your stroked high displacement free breathing high reving monster bus engine.

If you want to tune your FI, check in the FI section for posts from Ray Greenwood who has a few interesting ideas for squeezing better performance out of it.

ray greenwood · Post by **ray greenwood** » Mon Oct 15, 2001 2:54 pm

Derek. I agree with all of your points on FI. A few additions also. The fuel filter should not be on the pressurised side of the fuel loop. The pump should be drawing through the filter, not pumping through it into the injectors. Do not use after market filters. The stock FI filter is superb. It is a two stage filter using a compressed lint layer with a pleated paper element. It will not withstand high pressures. The pressure will blow a hole in the pleats releasing gunk into the injectors...very bad. The fuel volume on stock D-jet pumps is quite high. The lint trap spreads out the pressure draw and traps larger sand poarticles so they cannot be sucked through the paper pleats. Most other FI cars do not have quite the volume these pumps do...and do not have this type of filter...don't use them. The power to the fuel pump should be a dedicated circuit...and is pretty direct to the battery. You should have very few problems even with a weak alternator...unless you are having a severe charging problem. There should be nothing else on the fuel pump circuit. Also check to make sure the pump itself is not drawing tioo much amperage. The fuel lines on stock injection should be replaced like clockwork about every two and a half years. Always use the cotton braided fuel lines inside the engine compoartment area. Everything else cannot stand up to the combination of oil vapor, heat and internal pressure. Standard gates 1/4 inch fuel line has about an 8 month life span inside of an air cooled FI vehicle. The sensor in the head should be CHT. The 02 sensor should be on the left hand side of the muffler...both should be checked. Vacume leaks are a no-no...this is unmetered air...and has no fuel injected for its use. On L-type injection...the critical tubes are the PCV and the intake tube between the throttle body and the mass air unit. The seal behind the throttle body on the intake manifold is suspect every 3 years and is cheap. Ray

ray greenwood · Post by **ray greenwood** » Tue Oct 23, 2001 11:02 am

Believe me, stock injection IS old school. The original D-type came into being in 1966 and hit production in 67-1/2. L-type came into being...in testing... in about 72'. Hit production in about 74. The technology inside the "box" is pretty old...and kind of cool. It also is simpler than carbs...and I feel...a bit more reliable than STOCK dual carbs and has better HP. Ray

Derek May · Post by **Derek May** » Mon Oct 29, 2001 4:07 pm

Pancake:
If you want to go for OEM, then that gives you an excuse to go with the FI system, but you'd want to track down a functioning engine with the FI system on it, and put everything back in the Van as it was in '75. Its tricky finding the bits and pieces in working condition from th wreckers.

But if you've got carbs, and want to stay with that, check the threads on aftermarket dells and webers.

papun5880pr · Post by **papun5880pr** » Sat Nov 10, 2001 7:22 am

i have a GE series motor ,type 2 with central webber on it.easy to tune and no hassel with the fuel injection.take care not to over heat it and check the oil on regular bassis,after all oil is what keeps the engine cold,beside air flow tio the heads,etc.here you will find a lot of friends and help.good luck and if it is your first time bus you are for a rush and as many of us be prepare for be on the hook on it.type 4 parts are ussually expensive specially when to mayor parts are required so keep everything on a watching eye.oil stains on your garage floor can be from a seal,an oil switch ,a gasket or a crack on the engine so always keep an eye on it and feel free to ask,we are here as a group to help.good luck.