gas heater smells a little gassy
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gas heater smells a little gassy
Running a 75 Westy with an Esperach (sp?) gas heater in good condition, it was working fine last year, and working fine this year too, except when run, it smells a little gassy. I had it apart last year before running it, and tested all the bits and peices to ensure the system worked.
Anyone have any suggestions before I pull it off and have a look?
Anyone have any suggestions before I pull it off and have a look?
- fastmatt1
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gas heater smells a little gassy
All I can say is YIKES!!!!! I don't have balls big enough to run a gas heater! It doesn't get that cold here on the west coast 
Matt

Matt
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gas heater smells a little gassy
Ah, ye be chicken to heat your toes. Granted, it doesn't get that cold on the Coast, but I go inland where there is snow from time to time, nice to be toasty.
BA6 isn't actually all that complicated, and if it is inspected, all components checked and tested, it can be run reliably. I've attached a link to a scanned copy of the BA6 manual, perhaps after checking it out, and checking your BA6 you'll be a little braver.
http://www.vintagebus.com/techinfo/eber/index.html
http://www.type2.com/library/heating.htm
On the theme of flaming bus, Fastmatt, let me ask you this? How old are your fuel lines? Bad fuel lines blow up buses, not gas heaters.
BA6 isn't actually all that complicated, and if it is inspected, all components checked and tested, it can be run reliably. I've attached a link to a scanned copy of the BA6 manual, perhaps after checking it out, and checking your BA6 you'll be a little braver.
http://www.vintagebus.com/techinfo/eber/index.html
http://www.type2.com/library/heating.htm
On the theme of flaming bus, Fastmatt, let me ask you this? How old are your fuel lines? Bad fuel lines blow up buses, not gas heaters.
- fastmatt1
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gas heater smells a little gassy
OK you both have officially spooked me! I'm on my way to the garage to check my fuel lines again!!
Matt
BTW I regularly check them, every oil change.
Matt
BTW I regularly check them, every oil change.
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gas heater smells a little gassy
There are several posible causes. (1) if this is the BA4...check the 0-ring around the blower unit (that big motor on the end)..it craps out and leaks. Make sure the tab and notch line up...it only goes one way. (2) when you have the blower unit off,check the fiberglass/asbestos mantle right in front of it. If it has rips in it...it will cause gasses to leak .check the fuel line for leakage during run (this is probably not it, but check anyway) (4) check the joint at the exhaust pipe...also if the flame is running rich, and you are at a traffic light, if the exhaust is not poitioned carefully, you can suck up unburnt fumes into the fresh air duct. (5)if the tail-pipe is not stock...you need to have a vent ring welded in near the joint at the heater. This is kind of a venturi and mixes air into exhaust to make sure its burned and doesn't linger in the pipe too long. (6) with the tail-pipe off, make sure there is no rust under the clamp area. This is a welded joint between the inner and outer chamber. (7) check the volume/output adjustment...it could be running rich. This causes leakage at the o-ring on the blower and around the union nut on the thermocouple probe...check that joint also. And for those of you wjo are afraid of gas heaters...just remember next time when you go to bed...if you have natural gas or oil heat....there is a live flame running in the hall closet/basement...with a lot less sophisticated controls....and you sleep with that on...fraidy cats! hee hee! Ray
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gas heater smells a little gassy
added note...parts will be the same on BA6...Ray
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gas heater smells a little gassy
Thanks Ray. I had things apart last summer, O-ring and Asbestos looked good then, but the exhaust pipe was shody. Rust and retro fitted stuff, not stock, not quite right. Need to be replaced. My thinking was that it could be a leaky exhaust, and so with your point about the air valve in mind, its time to visit a good tailpipe shop for a custom fab on the exhaust. Exhaust on the BA6 comes under the Van and out just before the wheel on driver's side.
Will also take out the combustion fan and check seals etc.
I agree with you on the BA6 and BN4's, understood, maintained, and with working components, they run well, and safely. Indeed, for all the fraidy cats out there, the things have triple redundancy in them for safety. If they don't ignite within x-seconds they shut down. If they get too hot, a fuse is melted up in the dash, and there is a tripple relay under the dash that pops a breaker under various problem scenarios. If they work, they are safe. If there are any problems that would make them unsafe -- they aren't going to work for you, it just won't fire and will turn itself off.
Worry about old gas-lines, not the BA6/BN4, if you wanna worry about fires.
Will also take out the combustion fan and check seals etc.
I agree with you on the BA6 and BN4's, understood, maintained, and with working components, they run well, and safely. Indeed, for all the fraidy cats out there, the things have triple redundancy in them for safety. If they don't ignite within x-seconds they shut down. If they get too hot, a fuse is melted up in the dash, and there is a tripple relay under the dash that pops a breaker under various problem scenarios. If they work, they are safe. If there are any problems that would make them unsafe -- they aren't going to work for you, it just won't fire and will turn itself off.
Worry about old gas-lines, not the BA6/BN4, if you wanna worry about fires.
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gas heater smells a little gassy
Matt:
you are likely fine with the fuel lines.
I met a guy who was rebuilding his burned bus. He bought it back from the insurance company -- it was headed to scrap yard after the engine fire. Took him 4 years to get it back together, with a reasonable investment in weekends, evenings.
When I was chatting with him, I asked "how old were your fuel lines?" He answered "Ah, I don't know."
Bad answer. I'm surprised how many bus owners have the same answer. The OEM braided lines are fine, I just wonder why VW owners somehow expect they should last over a quarter of a century without problems. I doubt anyone is driving an old Ford with 25 year old lines, but there must still be a good number of VW's out there with original lines.
you are likely fine with the fuel lines.
I met a guy who was rebuilding his burned bus. He bought it back from the insurance company -- it was headed to scrap yard after the engine fire. Took him 4 years to get it back together, with a reasonable investment in weekends, evenings.
When I was chatting with him, I asked "how old were your fuel lines?" He answered "Ah, I don't know."
Bad answer. I'm surprised how many bus owners have the same answer. The OEM braided lines are fine, I just wonder why VW owners somehow expect they should last over a quarter of a century without problems. I doubt anyone is driving an old Ford with 25 year old lines, but there must still be a good number of VW's out there with original lines.
- Bob Ingman
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gas heater smells a little gassy
Darek, while we`re on this thread I`d like to post the manual in case you do`nt have it . Good Luck. Bob www.conservatory.com/vw/manuals_nyx/EberBN4.html
[This message has been edited by Bob Ingman (edited 10-23-2001).]
[This message has been edited by Bob Ingman (edited 10-23-2001).]
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gas heater smells a little gassy
Thanks Bob:
I'm actually running the BA6 (under the van), not the BN4 (in the engine bay), but the manual post may be invaluable to others out there. I posted a link to the BA6 and other gas heater info earlier in the thread.
Most of us had been discovered that the local repair shops won't touch the gas heaters, and fear them -- passing on the fear and trembling to others like Matt. I'd had conversations with others who were also afraid of the heater "blowing up", like Matt.
Anyone with a little mechanical aptitude and the appropriate manual can sort out (a) if their heater is in good enough shape to try or if it should be replaced and (b), assuming its in decent condition, how to get it working.
I've never actually heard of a fire in one of these things, and I've had experience with them in 4 seperate VW vehicles since 1982.
Anyone ever actually had a gas heater "blow up?"
I'm actually running the BA6 (under the van), not the BN4 (in the engine bay), but the manual post may be invaluable to others out there. I posted a link to the BA6 and other gas heater info earlier in the thread.
Most of us had been discovered that the local repair shops won't touch the gas heaters, and fear them -- passing on the fear and trembling to others like Matt. I'd had conversations with others who were also afraid of the heater "blowing up", like Matt.
Anyone with a little mechanical aptitude and the appropriate manual can sort out (a) if their heater is in good enough shape to try or if it should be replaced and (b), assuming its in decent condition, how to get it working.
I've never actually heard of a fire in one of these things, and I've had experience with them in 4 seperate VW vehicles since 1982.
Anyone ever actually had a gas heater "blow up?"
- Bob Ingman
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2001 12:01 am
gas heater smells a little gassy
I had a timer switch malfunction and not shut off. It melted everything in the car but when I changed to a new switch it kicked in and operated perfectly. Good Luck. Bob
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gas heater smells a little gassy
My heater has a temp sensor which seems a little over sensitive actually -- but if things get a little too hot for its comfort, it completes a circuit and blows a fuse in the dash, shutting off the fuel supply to the gas heater instantly. I've got to be careful to keep the thermostat down low.
I'm surprises your temp sensor didn't shut things down when your timer was buggy.
I'm surprises your temp sensor didn't shut things down when your timer was buggy.
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gas heater smells a little gassy
Derek, this should not be happening. Check your fuel pump volume...it may be too high, or you may be losing too much air somewhere and not getting enough cooling . The fuse you are talking about should be coming form the over-heat/ high limit switch mounted in the rubber plug in the top of the unit. It is a fluid filled bi-metallic disc with a gray cover and has two wires on flag terminals. If you push on it too hard, it has a tendency to roll the flags over where they can groung to the heater body. It gets worse as it gets hot, so chec kthat these little flags are not close or bent over. The fuse itself should be a 25 amp, not a 16. Ray
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gas heater smells a little gassy
Thanks for the suggestion on this Ray. I seem to remember reading that the Fuel pump on the BA6 system is checked by connecting a rubber hose, and timing how long it takes to fill a graduated flask to a certain volume. I think the manual explains this. Yup, the proper fuel delivery is 18.4 to 21.7 cm3 after 200 strokes of the pump.
Definately, the switch you are speaking of is the one that blows the fuse. I checked its operation last summer and its fine, again the BA6 manual explains how. All of the components work within defined parameters, I don't recall if I checked fuel, I may have assumed if it works, leave it be.
I've got to replace the exhaust pipe, and will check the fuel pump while under there.
Any comments on the venturi in the exhaust pipe you suggested? The manual says nothing of this for the BA6, and the schematic indicates two variants in tail pipe set ups, each leave the BA6 unit with a flexible pipe (mine is stainless steel and is in remarkably good shape), the either straight back in two pieces, or as mine goes, an elbow toward the driver's side, and then a pipe out to the driver's side of the van. Both of these sections are rusted through in my van, and I need to put something together from components at an auto store, or get someone to build me something.
I don't see any venturi, do you suggest it goes after the flexible stainless section? Or were your comments applicable only to the BN4?
Your assistance is much appreciated.
Definately, the switch you are speaking of is the one that blows the fuse. I checked its operation last summer and its fine, again the BA6 manual explains how. All of the components work within defined parameters, I don't recall if I checked fuel, I may have assumed if it works, leave it be.
I've got to replace the exhaust pipe, and will check the fuel pump while under there.
Any comments on the venturi in the exhaust pipe you suggested? The manual says nothing of this for the BA6, and the schematic indicates two variants in tail pipe set ups, each leave the BA6 unit with a flexible pipe (mine is stainless steel and is in remarkably good shape), the either straight back in two pieces, or as mine goes, an elbow toward the driver's side, and then a pipe out to the driver's side of the van. Both of these sections are rusted through in my van, and I need to put something together from components at an auto store, or get someone to build me something.
I don't see any venturi, do you suggest it goes after the flexible stainless section? Or were your comments applicable only to the BN4?
Your assistance is much appreciated.
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gas heater smells a little gassy
I have only really seen this venturi in the 411/412. But it makes sense. It is just like the space between the stake and outlet pipe on the top of the hot water heater you have in your house. Its simply a bulge in the pipe with slots cut into it to allow air to be drawn in an mixed with the exhaust. It is about two inches from where the pipe clamps to the heater body. It may simply be there to keep the pipe cool. I would also surmise that if it were too far down the pipe, the air velocity in the pipe may slow down enough to not draw air in, but actually push exhaust out. I had read somewhere, that it was to assure complete combustion before the spent gases got too far down the tube. Ray