head studs removal issues
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- Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2002 12:01 am
head studs removal issues
The most difficult part is to remove the frozen head studs...
I have try six engine cases (both early & late models) and only from two
all studs come out.From another removed 11 from 16 and from some just one...
I use a propane torch to heat the stud first and the case then.After the stud becomes bright red I wait a little to cool and then try to undo.
Is there any other method or any trick to remove ???
Does the propane makes efficient heat or it requires to upgrade to acetylene ???
thanks!
I have try six engine cases (both early & late models) and only from two
all studs come out.From another removed 11 from 16 and from some just one...
I use a propane torch to heat the stud first and the case then.After the stud becomes bright red I wait a little to cool and then try to undo.
Is there any other method or any trick to remove ???
Does the propane makes efficient heat or it requires to upgrade to acetylene ???
thanks!
Jim Andritsakos
1973 1303 German look (project)
1975 ex Bundeswehr vw 181 (FS)
1988 T3 Syncro 16 doubledoor
1990 T3 Syncro panel
1985 T3 Syncro ambulance (FS)
1985 T3 2WD panel (FS)
1973 1303 German look (project)
1975 ex Bundeswehr vw 181 (FS)
1988 T3 Syncro 16 doubledoor
1990 T3 Syncro panel
1985 T3 Syncro ambulance (FS)
1985 T3 2WD panel (FS)
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- Posts: 448
- Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2002 12:01 am
I have removed hundreds of h2o boxer studs. I use a special penetrating oil called Kroil. Its the oil that creaps. I run some down the stud, when screw the head nut back on hit the top of the nut with a hammer let it soak for about an hour double nut them, most of the time the studs will come right out, even the ones that are rusted bad. I have had a few stuborn ones that I have had to heat but not many. Yes I have the Kroil for sale. email me. Thanks Rocky
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- Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2002 12:01 am
Thanks all for your help!
Hello Rocky, you do awesome work on oxb shame you are so long away...
I would like to give kroil (correct?) a try please let me know if you are willing to ship and a price.
Also what type of heat are you using ?
propane , propane+acetylene , oxygen+acetylene something else ???
Thank you,
Jim
Hello Rocky, you do awesome work on oxb shame you are so long away...
I would like to give kroil (correct?) a try please let me know if you are willing to ship and a price.
Also what type of heat are you using ?
propane , propane+acetylene , oxygen+acetylene something else ???
Thank you,
Jim
Jim Andritsakos
1973 1303 German look (project)
1975 ex Bundeswehr vw 181 (FS)
1988 T3 Syncro 16 doubledoor
1990 T3 Syncro panel
1985 T3 Syncro ambulance (FS)
1985 T3 2WD panel (FS)
1973 1303 German look (project)
1975 ex Bundeswehr vw 181 (FS)
1988 T3 Syncro 16 doubledoor
1990 T3 Syncro panel
1985 T3 Syncro ambulance (FS)
1985 T3 2WD panel (FS)
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- Posts: 389
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 12:01 am
Thanks Rocky!
Are you willing to ship in Athens Greece (zip 16233) ???
Please email me at vw_wasserboxer@yahoo.gr
thanks,
Jim
Are you willing to ship in Athens Greece (zip 16233) ???
Please email me at vw_wasserboxer@yahoo.gr
thanks,
Jim
- akerfeldt
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 4:37 am
Re: head studs removal issues
i removed all studs today. the way i do it is to mount double nuts as usual and the give the stud a firm smack with a small sledgehammer. that worked fine for me. in some cases i used a pipe wrench.
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- Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2002 12:01 am
Re: head studs removal issues
You are very lucky as always there is some frozen ones...
Jim
Jim
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Re: head studs removal issues
When you heat metal it expands; I would not have heated the studs (especially red hot as you could be endanger of melting something touching it) for this and several other reasons. Steel, AL, Mag and most other metals all expand and contract at different rates.
I have never used Kriol but some people seem to think a lot of it but a good penetrating oil is probably the best was to go. WD-40, as well as other companies, are now advertising some new oils/liquids that may help in the future.
Lee
I have never used Kriol but some people seem to think a lot of it but a good penetrating oil is probably the best was to go. WD-40, as well as other companies, are now advertising some new oils/liquids that may help in the future.
Lee
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- Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2009 2:50 pm
Re: head studs removal issues
one of the best penetrating oils or fluids that is actually brake fluid , i have learned this from a enginebuilder with over 60 years in business, it has never failed me.
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Re: head studs removal issues
interesting tip!
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- Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2010 8:58 am
Re: head studs removal issues
I found this on line at http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/show ... p?t=350800
"Machinist's Workshop Magazine (March/April or May/June, 2007) actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price."
"Machinist's Workshop Magazine (March/April or May/June, 2007) actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price."
Pascal
84 Westy
84 Westy