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The most difficult part is to remove the frozen head studs...
I have try six engine cases (both early & late models) and only from two
all studs come out.From another removed 11 from 16 and from some just one...

I use a propane torch to heat the stud first and the case then.After the stud becomes bright red I wait a little to cool and then try to undo.
Is there any other method or any trick to remove ???
Does the propane makes efficient heat or it requires to upgrade to acetylene ???

thanks!

use only propane as to much heat will worp the case!!

that will come out in the end, good luck

I have removed hundreds of h2o boxer studs. I use a special penetrating oil called Kroil. Its the oil that creaps. I run some down the stud, when screw the head nut back on hit the top of the nut with a hammer let it soak for about an hour double nut them, most of the time the studs will come right out, even the ones that are rusted bad. I have had a few stuborn ones that I have had to heat but not many. Yes I have the Kroil for sale. email me. Thanks Rocky

Sorry above forgot to log in. Rocky

Hi

Ive been told that if you get them while their still wet it helps, as in freshly stripped motor.

Steve

I would not heat the studs at all, only on the aluminum case up and down & around the stud & only for a about 30 seconds. The studs will loose the heat treat and can't be reused for a water cooled vanagon. Thanks Rocky

Thanks all for your help!

Hello Rocky, you do awesome work on oxb shame you are so long away...
I would like to give kroil (correct?) a try please let me know if you are willing to ship and a price.
Also what type of heat are you using ?
propane , propane+acetylene , oxygen+acetylene something else ???


Thank you,
Jim

Jim I use oxy-acetylene small tip. Kroil costs 8 oz can $11.00 + shipping. Thanks Rocky

Thanks Rocky!

Are you willing to ship in Athens Greece (zip 16233) ???
Please email me at vw_wasserboxer@yahoo.gr

thanks,
Jim

i removed all studs today. the way i do it is to mount double nuts as usual and the give the stud a firm smack with a small sledgehammer. that worked fine for me. in some cases i used a pipe wrench.

You are very lucky as always there is some frozen ones...

Jim

When you heat metal it expands; I would not have heated the studs (especially red hot as you could be endanger of melting something touching it) for this and several other reasons. Steel, AL, Mag and most other metals all expand and contract at different rates.

I have never used Kriol but some people seem to think a lot of it but a good penetrating oil is probably the best was to go. WD-40, as well as other companies, are now advertising some new oils/liquids that may help in the future.

Lee

one of the best penetrating oils or fluids that is actually brake fluid , i have learned this from a enginebuilder with over 60 years in business, it has never failed me.

interesting tip!

I found this on line at http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/show ... p?t=350800

"Machinist's Workshop Magazine (March/April or May/June, 2007) actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price."