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I recently installed aluminum valve covers on my 74
super beetle with the 1600 engine, and they look great!
But I have heard that aluminum valve covers will
actually raise the engine temperature. Does anyone
know if this is indeed true and if so Why?? I always
thought that aluminum was a good thermal conductor.


Thanks in advance!
Dave

I'm also interested in this,I read an article in VW trends about staying with stock covers,I may switch back to them,I got Aluminum covers on mine too.More opinions on this would be great.I did paint mine black also to help dissapate heat.

The Aluminum will disapate more heat then the stock tin but I dought if the difference is worth considering. Vic.
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The Aluminum will disapate more heat then the stock tin but I dought if the difference is worth considering. Vic.

I agree, Plus the stock covers, when installed properly, don't leak.

Brian

But My stock ones leaked,and my Aluminum ones don't!Wanna race for pink slips?

I had the opposite problem. My stock ones didn't leak and the aluminum ones did. Went back to stock. JT

The shiny aluminium (or chormed steel) rocker covers WILL increase engine heat.

This is because the covers are insulated from the heads by the thick cork seal and so are affected only by oil splashed on them inside the covers. The black stock colour radiates the oil heat better than shiny aluminium or chrome.

For confirmation - conside this...in the 50s VW used to offer an "artic conversion kit" for really cold climates (Scandanavia etc), which included chrome rocker covers to prevent overcooling - to help keep a little more heat in the engine.

Th finning on some fancy covers isnot sufficient to ovecome the radiant effect either, so the stock black covers are the best at shedding engine heat.

My valve covers was leaking oil not much a drip or 2 daily until I got fed-up of it and decided to change the cork seal and replace with new ones (now comes in thick silicon like materials rather than cork but the material is pretty absorbent).

Shi@!&, it still leak after an hour of driving, open the valve covers again, examine every thing closely but could not find anything un-usual like bend or chiped covers or where it sit--but did notice that the new silicon materials absorb full of oil (when I squeeze it).... if what I see is right then valve covers oil leak is bount to happen sooner or later (keep this in mind), anyway...

I soak it in petrol to remove as much oil as possible and let it sit for an hour toi dry, apply a thin layer of "Blue silicon" on both side of the silicon seal and close the cover--no more oil leak.

I agree, painted tin is better. but if your engine does not run hot then whats the problem with running a little chromium go-faster? its all good.

<sandman2332 said: running a little chromium go-faster?>
That's new to me, I didn't know that chrome valve covers can make the bug go faster? What other parts can I chrome to make my bug go faster? Hahahaa, no offence meant )

chrome wont get you home

sagaboy wrote:My valve covers was leaking oil not much a drip or 2 daily until I got fed-up of it and decided to change the cork seal and replace with new ones (now comes in thick silicon like materials rather than cork but the material is pretty absorbent).

Shi@!&, it still leak after an hour of driving, open the valve covers again, examine every thing closely but could not find anything un-usual like bend or chiped covers or where it sit--but did notice that the new silicon materials absorb full of oil (when I squeeze it).... if what I see is right then valve covers oil leak is bount to happen sooner or later (keep this in mind), anyway...

I soak it in petrol to remove as much oil as possible and let it sit for an hour toi dry, apply a thin layer of "Blue silicon" on both side of the silicon seal and close the cover--no more oil leak.

You're going to have fun the next time you go to adjust your valves...

If your gaskets are saturated in oil, a gasoline soak isn't going to fix them. If they're rubber, replacing them won't do the trick either. All the gaskacinch in the world won't change that.

The only valve cover gasket worth using is cork. If your local parts house doesn't carry them, find another parts house. Your valve covers will leak every time, guaranteed, using the rubber valve cover gaskets, UNLESS you use silicon to seal your valve covers to the heads. Once you go there, of course, you're screwed. Sure, you got your leaks fixed, but now you have a gloppy, sticky, oily mess of goo to scrape off when you go to adjust your valves next time. Better dubbers than myself have said it better in the past:
http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/oilleaks.htm

The techniques vic details in that article will fix your leaks and allow you to use your stock covers, which offer better cooling. I tried it last time I adjusted my valves, and my long-standing valve cover leaks are now gone. Stock covers, stock bails, cork gaskets, no leaks. Try it, you'll like it.

I thought that the "cork" valve seal has been replaced with newer type (manufacturers always do that) and the new valve seal is almost useless?there is no way oil leak can be avoided as it tends to absorb oil and currently my oil leak stop temporarily because I applied a very thin ?Outer? layer of silicon. You are absolutely right about the impending problem?common senses prevail. OK, will look for a new part supplier?thanks for the info, really good for newbies like me, it is appreciated )

6v is correct: cork is the way to go. I've always followed the Muir book's advice, and I've never had a valve cover leak. Here's what I do:

1. Remove and thoroughly clean the STOCK valve covers. Wash with soap, scrape any previous gasket material off, and spray paint flat black.

2. Using white "Elmers" glue, glue one side of a new cork valve cover gasket to the inside of each valve cover.

3. After waiting a little while for the glue to dry, apply a layer of wheel bearing grease (no liquid gasket!) to the other side of the cork gasket (the side that meets the head).

4. Reattach valve covers.


If you stick to this method, then you should not have any problems with valve cover leaks (as long as your valve covers/heads are stock and not warped/malformed in any way).

I understand that the rocker arm is lubricated when oil is splashed at it through the rocker arm tube. The question is; since the rocker arm tube is connected to the engine full of oil, what is preventing the oil circulating inside the valve/rocker arm as well? Appreciate any info )